To peroxide or not to peroxide.

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Chandler
It’s really difficult to get away from using a peroxide as a surface treatment for pet urine(not guaranteed). It’s cost effective, very potent on the salts and staining. The pic on the left is the smelly dry state and the pic on the right is just 15mins after treatment(no extraction. 90% of the stains and 100% of the odor is gone before extraction(to pull liquified urine). Every carpet and urine contamination is different, but of all the product types I have access to, peroxide wins most of the time when it comes to a top down treatment.

88311
 
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Cleanworks

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Ron Marriott
I get good results with acidic urine neutralizers. I only use the peroxide based products like Osr or Pet Zone on the worst cases. The peroxide can lighten the carpet too much sometimes. It's usually my last resort.
 

BIG WOOD

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Peroxide is my go to also. The only time I like to use an acid treatment is when upholstery and wool carpets are effected. Every other time, peroxide first, clean second, and peroxide last
 
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Chandler
For me, it depends on the quality, age and condition of the carpet. Good quality, higher end carpet gets the premium treatment. Carpet that been used as a toilet gets the peroxide treatment. I have good success with acid urine products and enzymes and a water claw.
great method. thanks! for sharing
 
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Cleanworks

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It's the same with coffee and similar stains. We have some very good peroxide solutions but there is always some risk. Nothing wrong with using a good tannin stain remover first and then if it doesn't work, use the peroxide. I had a job the other day with some serious coffee stains. I was out of my peroxide so I had to use an old fashioned coffee stain remover. Worked great, quick and easy.
 
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Cleanworks

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I was a huge user of 40 v prior to discovering Prime Time. Now the Enzyme prespray is my first weapon against urine and biological odors. I still keep peroxide around, but really don’t use it anymore.
I've tried the prime time and find it works as well as any other enzyme, maybe better
 
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steve_64

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Enzyme first. Soak it all down good and clean the areas less effected first. Plenty of dwell time.

Ill have to look into prime time. My go to is molecular modifier.

I've used the light to find cat pee and the spots would disappear as I sprayed MM leaving no trace of spots.
 

J Scott W

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Jeffrey Scott Warrington
Urine Neutralizer (pretreatment) with acid and some solvent for the lipids, followed by flushing as the first step. If you remove as much as possible with that relatively fast process whatever you choose to use next works better and faster.
 

Nomad74

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The best Urine products I have found are my swimming pool peroxide at 27% 1-2 oz per gal, UTurn by Centrum Force 1:128 ratio, Saiger's P-lyme 4:1, Pureforce EOCX2 4:1.

I tried to love the Unduzit but the crappy 1:1 dilution, 1 hour dwell time, Downey on steroids odor, and cost really don't make it work for me. Don’t get me wrong, it works good. When it came out I was really excited about it until I realized the shorcomings. I’m actually a little sad about it because I really wanted to love it.

I would say out of all of them the most cost effective/best dilution/and slightest odor, (besides straight peroxide) is the UTurn.
 
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BIG WOOD

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That’s because you’re a moron
Go back to your basic chemistry on breaking down urine salts. An alkaline enzyme Can’t neutralize the urine to be flushed out. All it’s doing is killing the bacteria. It’s like polishing a turd.
 
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hogjowl

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Who said anything about urine salts?
If I run into salts that won’t flush out, which is like never, I’ll 40 v them.

Stop trying to think and just listen.
 
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