Wall drying?

#2
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With respect that's like asking how fast can I go in my car. The answer is that depends, and the same answer for wall drying. The type of water (category), amount of water (class), and the construction and materials involved will determine how to dry and what equipment should be used. Injecti-Dry, Dry Force, and Viking are three wall drying systems that can be used depending on the given situation. Frankly it's to broad a question to answer without more specifics. PM me Stevie if you like to talk about this in more depth.
 
#3
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Insulated? Turbo vents are the fastest.

Viking system covers larger areas but lower volume of air delivery. But it does add some resistance heat.

Injectidry with intercepter and Adaptadry with HEPA scrubbers are used in projects where cavities are questionable but removal was not desired.
 
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Insulated? Turbo vents are the fastest.

Viking system covers larger areas but lower volume of air delivery. But it does add some resistance heat.

Injectidry with intercepter and Adaptadry with HEPA scrubbers are used in projects where cavities are questionable but removal was not desired.
No doubt Rich has proper training, different drying systems and understands structural drying. Stevie's question suggests he would benefit most from additional education/training, especially when working with a challenging situation as a wet insulated wall. Other considerations such using positive or negative air, and is there a possibility of asbestos or lead present that needs to be accessed. It's understood he's looking for equipment and system options. If someone doesn't thoroughly understand how and when to use each it's not likely they're going to address the loss properly and could potentially get themselves in real trouble.
 
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#7
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IF you can dry them it's "Win, Win" for everyone. Wall is dry in days, home or business owner have the least interruption.

Cut them out? Structure should still get some drying. Drywall still needs to be put back, taped, sanded, painted. Messy and time consuming. Costs generally go up whenever the claim is open.
 
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IF you can dry them it's "Win, Win" for everyone. Wall is dry in days, home or business owner have the least interruption.

Cut them out? Structure should still get some drying. Drywall still needs to be put back, taped, sanded, painted. Messy and time consuming. Costs generally go up whenever the claim is open.
Completely agree. So often you see jobs where a contractor or "restorer" unnecessarily cut out drywall simply because they lacked the proper training and or didn't have the right equipment.
 
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I have an Injectidry system and a couple of Octidrys. A little cloudy on when to use negative vs positive pressure. Guess I better get the ASD manual out.
 
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You can do either and sometimes on difficult to dry trapped areas both is your best method.

Negative draw is best whenever their is a possibility of microbial growth. I wouldn't suggest drying moldy walls but there are times they find the damage a day or two later. In those case
Drawing the air is best using the HEPA filter.
 
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If you're just starting out make sure you have the right insurance (contractors pollution liability) coverage, not just general liability. General liability will not cover you if you are sued for improper drying that leads to mold or any other microbial contamination claim. Dave Dybdahl of American Risk Management Resources is an expert in this type of coverage. 608-824-3341
 
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We like all different systems for all the different scenarios we encounter.

We have 7 injectidry units, 3 drieaz interair and several Viking/air mover with hose units(we almost never use the Viking unit)

The guys always grab the drieaz units first as they are so light in comparison to the injectidry but does not compete with the injectidry on the power side.
 
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Which way is more affordable to the customer/insurance company?

Taking a razor blade and cutting 2-4ft off the wall and drying with an air mover, and the cost of hiring a sheetrock installer and repainting? Or the Injectidry setup?
 
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You need to add the labor to remove it and dry a day still. Then the mess of sanding and taping. Painting complete walls, wall paper, wainscotting.

Not to mention the protracted time it takes to get it all back together. Working couples must schedule someone off or risk trusting several trades. Drying is the faster better option provided there is no damage to the drywall.
 
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You need to add the labor to remove it and dry a day still. Then the mess of sanding and taping. Painting complete walls, wall paper, wainscotting.

Not to mention the protracted time it takes to get it all back together. Working couples must schedule someone off or risk trusting several trades. Drying is the faster better option provided there is no damage to the drywall.
I was focusing on how it's priced in the invoice Xactimate.

Is drilling holes, and using the that drying machine cheaper than the old fashioned way that I mentioned above?
 
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The problem with the industry is that "so called restorers" are charging more to "mitigate the damages" then the cost of replacement... That's where experience comes into play...

Yes, you want to mitigate the damages but not at the expense of charging more to do it, unless of course special circumstances..

When the cost of mitigation out weighs the cost of replacement, cut it out.. Knowing a good drywall company that doesn't fook around and get the job done is priceless..
 
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The problem with the industry is that "so called restorers" are charging more to "mitigate the damages" then the cost of replacement... That's where experience comes into play...

Yes, you want to mitigate the damages but not at the expense of charging more to do it, unless of course special circumstances..

When the cost of mitigation out weighs the cost of replacement, cut it out.. Knowing a good drywall company that doesn't fook around and get the job done is priceless..
That was the reason of my questions
 
#27
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Even if the price were the same. What do you suppose your client would choose?

People don't want the hassle. They are always happy when we don't have to tear it out and irritated when we do.
Its sucks to have your house torn up for extended periods of time. Sanding can cause collateral damage and painting is its own hassle.
 
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#28
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Even if the price were the same. What do you suppose your client would choose?

People don't want the hassle. They are always happy when we don't have to tear it out and irritated when we do.
Its sucks to have your house torn up for extended periods of time. Sanding can cause collateral damage and painting is its own hassle.
Mold.

That word scares all the homeowners from what the media has done. I know the wall drying process prevents mold, but the customer doesn't. When they can see their 2X4 frames bone dry, that gives them a sense of satisfaction.

Have you ever had a customer question your drying system just because they can't see behind the wall?
 
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Mold.

That word scares all the homeowners from what the media has done. I know the wall drying process prevents mold, but the customer doesn't. When they can see their 2X4 frames bone dry, that gives them a sense of satisfaction.

Have you ever had a customer question your drying system just because they can't see behind the wall?
Mold? Who is worried about mold? :winky:


YOU NEED 2.jpg
 
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