If you have photos, the time stamp should help establish its record early in your visit.
Besides, I'm with Fred, I'm looking at it as an installation issue at this stage. Standards require seam sealant as a minimum, some manufacturers take that further and insist on it across transition areas as well. But that should really be the role of an inspector to establish that especially if the carpet is only 2 years old. If it is a lack of seam sealant, then it won't only be that area, look carefully elsewhere and you'll probably see other areas. When I do an inspection, I look for consistencies/inconsistencies across the entire installation rather than a single localised issue.
As Ron said, a careful lifting to expose the perimeter gripper will help to establish if the local environment has contributed to the situation. Be careful pushing this too far without proof. Slightly easier down under with so mand jute secondary backings still in use. As I said, be careful, you have no definitive proof that the rusty pins are from THIS INSTALLATION. What if the carpet was replaced under an insurance claim from a previous flood?
Finally, to the repair. Yes easily done with the right tools, glue and a little skill mixed with patience. But before you do, establish the aboe as to whether YOU need to do the repair because its your fault. If you can prove its nothing to do with you, don't touch it! I'd be reluctant to touch it anyway as it'll become your problem regardless. I use both latex and hot melt glue, in this case I would go for the hot melt. It gives a more permanent solution, but it is a fast curing solution so doesn't give you 'stuff around time' to work the repair. You need to ensure no pile gets caught down in the join as it will highlight it. Start with the least affected side, and you need a gun with a long nozzle so you can reach in easily. Have the gun really hit, and lay a thin layer of glue working from the back of the delamination out, stopping frequently to pressure the face down into the glue and bed it in well. It should cure quickly then keep working. The biggest issue is doing too big an area at a time. Once the least affected side is complete, go to the other side and work that all in in a similar fashion. Once all done, look to stretch past the gully slightly although that will be difficult given the angle of the join coming in, it'll tend to want to pucker on you. Trim the edge, seal that with seam sealant then tuck down firmly into the gully.
Taking care, you should be able to do an invisible repair.... If it is proven to be your problem.
John
