Which rinse?

Condog

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There’s no way to tell if a rinse even works.
Much less if one is better than the other.
Idiots
If lowering the pH level to a neutral state is your goal, then you can tell if it works.
Just take a before and after pH reading?
 

jcooper

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If your going to go through the effort of wanding out the room/carpet, why wouldn't you want a little something/cleaning power in the water?

Emulsifier, acid, natural, whatever... It's up to you, but not using something makes no sense, imo.


As Larry said - you don't need(and shouldn't) to use the recommended amount. Use what works for you.


I've used Marks rinse for over 6 month now, 2 cups a headpack plenty for us.

And Yes, of course I see a difference using it when I rinse.
 

Hack Attack

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If lowering the pH level to a neutral state is your goal, then you can tell if it works.
Just take a before and after pH reading?
It's not all about pH adjustment, it's also about removing (rinsing) the prespray easier/faster

wanna run a 6 flow wand and rinse as fast as a guy running 10 flow and beat his drying times?

Use a rinse
 

DAT

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During the Legend Brands tour I asked the chemist about using a rinse and boosters with Prochem Ultra Pack Extreme and he said we need to quit adding stuff to his prespray. He didn't design it to be used with other products and they're only working against the active ingredients. He said it will rinse just fine with water.
I do not boost at all with extreme. Works fine all on its own.
 

Cleanworks

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During the Legend Brands tour I asked the chemist about using a rinse and boosters with Prochem Ultra Pack Extreme and he said we need to quit adding stuff to his prespray. He didn't design it to be used with other products and they're only working against the active ingredients. He said it will rinse just fine with water.
Chemists are like chefs. They don't like it when you add salt and pepper.
 

Hack Attack

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During the Legend Brands tour I asked the chemist about using a rinse and boosters with Prochem Ultra Pack Extreme and he said we need to quit adding stuff to his prespray. He didn't design it to be used with other products and they're only working against the active ingredients. He said it will rinse just fine with water.
Never used that product but the chemist "should" know best, some products definitely rinse better than others
 
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Condog

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It's not all about pH adjustment, it's also about removing (rinsing) the prespray easier/faster

wanna run a 6 flow wand and rinse as fast as a guy running 10 flow and beat his drying times?

Use a rinse
Hogjowl said: There’s no way to tell if a rinse even works.
My reply was about a way to verify if a rinse does anything.
I was simply saying that measuring pH is a way to get a document-able answer to if it works.

I do appreciate what you are saying.
I have a 360i/cfx set up, no wand.
From your post I gather that the carpet will dry faster if a rinse is used.

Thanks for the knowledge.
From a video I'd learned that extracting water is over a thousand times faster than evaporation, and that lower psi puts out less water . So not mentioned was the use of chemicals to lower drying time. Thanks for the information.
 

Condog

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who told you that matters on typical wall to wall synthetic carpet?
More importantly, "why" it matters?

..L.T.A.
I was told that a high alkaline cleaner left in the carpet would act as a magnet for soils, which is more towards the acidic side. This works on the same principle as magnets. Like polarity repels, different polarity attracts. This is why when people used Armor All to clean their dash the next day the dash would be dustier than the day before it was cleaned. Dry particulates floating in the air where pulled to the dash because of different polarities.
By lowering the pH to a more acidic condition the fibers would repel the acidic particulates in the air/or on shoes. Leaving the carpet in a more alkali state would be like a magnet to the acidic dry particulates.
 

BIG WOOD

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I was told that a high alkaline cleaner left in the carpet would act as a magnet for soils, which is more towards the acidic side. This works on the same principle as magnets. Like polarity repels, different polarity attracts. This is why when people used Armor All to clean their dash the next day the dash would be dustier than the day before it was cleaned. Dry particulates floating in the air where pulled to the dash because of different polarities.
By lowering the pH to a more acidic condition the fibers would repel the acidic particulates in the air/or on shoes. Leaving the carpet in a more alkali state would be like a magnet to the acidic dry particulates.
The alkaline cleaner is a magnet for soils NOT because of the ph, but because of how sticky it is after it dries. If ph was a concern, there wouldn't be alkaline rinses.

The ph of the oils that's in the soil is acidic, so if the carpet is left in an alkaline, the oils will have trouble attaching to the fibers, which is what you want. So here's my rule of thumb on rinses.

Natural fibers or wool: Acid rinse needed

Trashed carpet: Alkaline rinse if you want

Normal carpet cleaning maintenance: No rinse

Use some common sense. Quit making this subject so complicated like you're diffusing a bomb. Keep in mind you're just cleaning plastic carpet. In the past, people hung their rugs over a fence and sprayed it with water, and some still do today.
 
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Hack Attack

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don't get too hung up on the pH

not all high alkaline necessarily means sticky residue ie think encap how does it dry?

not all low pH is residue free either, I use acid rinse on urine if you mix it too heavy it will resoil rapidly

If your prespray at rtu dilution on your hand is hard to rinse off with water alone it will be hard to rinse off carpet as well

many get by without using a rinse, but are most likely using higher water rates and more dry strokes to compensate (or just using easy rinsing products)

Personally its sooo cheap I dont care and carry 3 rinses but 1 probably does 80% of what I do
 
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Dolly Llama

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I was told that a high alkaline cleaner left in the carpet would act as a magnet for soils


Thanks Tony
I figured it was myth that's gets repeated ..."rapid resoil"

it's just not so.
There are plenty things that can cause it...and some ARE acids rinses
but PH s not the cause

..L.T.A.
 
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ruff

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Many years ago, by a mistake I only realized much later, I used a huge amount of an alkaline rinse on a synthetic carpet. Many times the recommended amount. The product was Dry Slurry.

I was quite sure that next time, if there would be one, the carpet will look filthy due to attracting and re-soiling because of the alkaline residue. The carpet when I cleaned again, looked pristine.

A good alkaline rinse will not cause more re-soiling than a good acid rinse.
 
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Nomad74

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I cleaned this Friday night. I clean this every quarter. This place is always bad. I'm the fourth cleaner they've tried and also the last :) It's my Mongolian Grill place. I scrub, zipper, rinse, and protect, no blow and go for me. @FredC , Wow, loading video here is now so much easier!!!!!! Good job sir.


WYEW3604.JPG
 

scotty747

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I think carpet attracts soil more from people walking on it than polarity. The carpet is attracted to the gravitational force of someone's dirty shoe. Just tried the Extreme. Works great but dosent smell that good.
 

steve_64

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Resoiling is caused by vacuming. Or more to the point a dirty brushroll. It's what causes the whole carpet to be evenly soiled. Traffic lane soiling is just that.
 

Cleanworks

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All of you guys who are worried about ph should buy a ph indicator pen. let the carpet rest for 1 hour after cleaning an measure the ph remaining. I've done this many times since the early 90's when ph issues were raised because of stain resist carpets using both ph paper and indicator pens of different sorts. Unless I am using some kind of high ph product like Prochem Extreme or similar, prespraying with a 10 ph product and rinsing with a 10 ph product leaves the carpet close to neutral after about 1 hour. Why? because the soil load in the carpet is acidic in nature and rapidly lowers the ph of even the strongest products out there. Some acid rinses leave more sticky residue that some alkaline rinses. Use well formulated products that have been tested not to leave residue, like the Dry Slurry Ofer mentioned, and you won't have any problems. I use acid rinses to correct specific problems, such as browning or wicking. Everything else gets an alkaline rinse.
 

Loren Egland

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I used alkaline only rinses for over 40 years.
I never saw resoiling problems nor did I ever get a complaint from a carpet that I left it in a alkaline state.

Same here. 50 years of mostly alkaline powdered carpet extraction detergent without a problem.

Not rinsing the prespray out well is more likely the reason for carpet resoiling.
 
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