Will jumping my slide in 12v battery with vans 24v battery damage it?

[ruff]

Will jumping my slide in (kubuta) 12v battery with my vans 24v battery damage it?

Trying to avoid keeping a jumper battery with me that will need to be charged every month (which of course I'll forget.)

If it is risky for the battery, what other choices do I have?

 

[Ron Werner]

what about a battery charger you can connect to your van, ie through the cigarette lighter, then leave it wired to your 12V battery

 

[Goomer]

Why can't you buy a new 12v??

 

[ruff]

Nothing is wrong with the battery Frank. Just want to be ready if I need to jump start it.

Ron. I am not sure how that would work. Just trying to simplify things and not keep charging different devices.

So, would the 24v damage my 12v battery?
If so, any other options?

 

[Able 1]

What are the cranking amps? My vans battery is like 675 and my TM's is like 375cca... Turns my TM over real nice with the vans battery!

 

[Goomer]

I don't think a short duration jump would be a problem. I know most tow trucks are 24v and they jump 12v systems all the time.
I would be more concerned with frying an ECU or other electrical components if not isolated, if your machine has any.

 

[ruff]

This is above my expertise level (very low- you must have guessed .)

I have a Dodge Sprinter, not sure what the battery amps are. And a Prochem diesel Apex that has a diesel Kubuta engine. If I knew what an ECU is, I'll tell you if I had one. so, whatever normally comes with an Apex, I have it.
I don't know if it is isolated.
What do I know about those things, I'm a Democrat!

 

[Able 1]

What do I know about those things, I'm a Democrat!

I understand!! Any common logic might be hard to wrap your head around..

BTW how do you like the diesel Apex? I heard early on there was a vibration concern, any problems with yours? I would love to go diesel!

 

[Goomer]

Electronic/Engine Control Unit, or any circuit boards or other sensitive electronic components if your machine has them. I don't really know if a jump would only be isolated to your starter or not. Just a guess.

 

[Able 1]

Come to think of it you Democrats are electrical geniuses!!! How about you get a solar panal from Salindra and mount it on your van(oh wait)..

 

[floorguy]

woa woa woa.....

why are you saying 24v????

because it has 2 batteries???

WRONG.....

only vehicles i know of that are 24V are military.....

the 2 batteries are to help crank the Diesel motor, as they take more combustion then a regular fuel engine...

go take an amp meter out there and check it....they are wired in parallel if i am not mistakin and should read 12V

because EVERYTHING on the vehicle would cost $$$$$ if it was 24v

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Back when I was a kid there were still a lot of 6v vehicles, My dad often used a 12v to start. Worked great. (short burst)

There's usually a way to tap the center to get a reduced voltage.

 

[FredC]

Doug is right on the 12v


but on sprinters I'm pretty sure the second battery is is aux/accessory battery only to keep you from draining the starting battery

It is isolated

Edit: which one is which (aux vs start) depends on year

 

[SamIam]

I jump my 405 with my van battery no problem if the ignition on the machine gets left on it will drain the battery so I keep cables just for that

 

[Becker]

Having dual batteries does not mean 24 volts. My boat operates in 12v. But has 3 batteries. As did my f250 diesel. 12v 2 battery's.

 

[Ron Werner]

My E350 diesel has 2 batteries, both are 12V . I have to jump my TM battery periodically. The nice thing is both batteries go to the same ground so all I need to do is connect the Positive terminals to crank her over.
I started carrying 16ft cables years ago in my old truck. I would leave the headlights on and have to jump the truck from the TM. and if I left a light on in the box I could jump the TM from the truck. I think the next time I put a unit together I'm going to hardwire a connection with a On-Off switch.

 

[Jim Martin]

take on of these....

and some battery cables..( they come in all different lengths )..........

run a cable to each negative on the batteries.......then just add the switch in between the positive cables some where in the middle....if your truck or machine needs jump started....then just flip the switch.....

the best place to mount this is under the hood....but...you can put it by your machine...just put it in a WP box for protection.....

 

[Bob Savage]

A van with 2 -12VDC batteries is still 12 VDC. The batteries are set up in parallel to double the amps for starting (diesel motors need more starting amps since their compression is so high). The voltage is still 12 VDC.

In my gasoline truckmount, which has it's own 12VDC battery, I used a welding cable to connect it in parallel to the van battery under the hood, so I have double the amps for starting the truckmount, and double amps for starting the van. This setup will greatly increase the life of both batteries, since you will have about 1400 cold cranking amps total.

I also have a 1500 watt 12VDC to 110VAC inverter that can supply 15 amps of 110VAC power if I ever need it. Our LP heater and APO use 110VAC (2.5 amps total), so the inverter gives us the AC we need to operate those components. The Honda 24 HP motor charges both batteries when running. The van alternator charges both batteries when running. The truckmount's charging system runs the inverter while we are cleaning.

Both batteries have been in there for years without needing to change them out.

I also carry an 800 AMP jumpstarter just in case http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2357?cm_mmc=Housefile-_-SHIPPED-_-1206-_-CONF.

No one likes to be stranded. ...lol

 

[Newman]

I use dual batteries in my demolition derby cars. Initially they are wired in series for 12V starting and wrecking fun. As the hit counter racks up we may loose the fan or the sweet radiator juice and man that engine gets hot! I do everything I can to keep that 350 from stalling but sometimes it just quits when whacked hard.

So when it gets hot the pistons and bearings expand making it very hard for the starter to do its job. I carry a short battery jumper with me to rewire the batteries to 24V parallel to get that last fire into the engine. It does burn up the starter eventually but when going for the win, who cares!

 

[ruff]

Thank you guys.
I appreciate the help and I feel much better knowing that I can jump start it without frying anything.
Much appreciated.

 

[Larry Cobb]

You can not use 24 VDC to jump a 12 VDC system !

But, as others have mentioned, it is probably not 24 VDC.

Check the voltage before attempting.

Larry

 

[ruff]

Thanks Larry, I will.

 

[Dan]

Scratching my head..... Wow.

 

[juniorc82]

Ive did it several times

 

[Lee Stockwell]

You can not use 24 VDC to jump a 12 VDC system !

But, as others have mentioned, it is probably not 24 VDC.

Check the voltage before attempting.

Larry

I don't dispute often, but I will here. YES, yes you can.

Did you ever use a big screw to tap the center cell of a battery? Allows full voltage for starter and lesser for accessories if needed.

 

[AshleyMckendree]

I don't dispute often, but I will here. YES, yes you can.

Did you ever use a big screw to tap the center cell of a battery? Allows full voltage for starter and lesser for accessories if needed.

What?? "tap the center cell"? Never heard of this, and quite honestl Can't picture what you mean.


....

 

[FredC]

I can picture it. Just not sure why you wouldn't buy a 12v/6v battery instead.

In the olden days when Lee was young some cars had 6v electrical systems. Not ideal for starting. A 6v/12v battery allowed you to convert the starting system to 12v and retain the 6v accessories. Had a center post

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Best way to visualize is by taking apart discarded battery to see how to tap into the connection between middle two cells. Dad learned how to do it in Korea when they had to move stuff in bitter cold.