A few thoughts
The installation was pretty smooth, except for the holes on the left side, which are virtually impossible to drill without special tools and bits. One of the holes could have been moved a couple of inches, and it could have been drilled with a regular drill.
There are no shut off valves on the solution connections on the machine. Maybe it's just, me but mine always have it. It's a personal preference, plus a safety issue. When that fitting fails and is open, incredibly hot water is coming out.
The fit and finish are very nice, but the right door has to be forced to make it fit. They did a nice job on the front panel. It comes off without having to take off any fittings.
I put the tank to the right,mcentered against the bulk head. I wish they would offer an option for that. My supplier says I'm one of a kind, but I would pay extra for it. I'd also like to see stainless fitting anywhere that touches chemicals.
Getting the vacuum connections to match up wasn't simple nor pretty. I didn't remember to call
Butler and see if their hose will work. I would like it to be nice and clean. Currently it's driving me crazy. I might have to paint everything black so it looks better. Not the machine just the fittings. I have an aluminum mandrel connected with that black stuff they send. Then I have PVC with that black stuff. Works fine but I will look for another option.
There is no cooling for the belts so I'll install my own. Same thing I used on the previous machine. Just a radiator fan mounted in plexiglass. I saw a drain for the oil but not the pump. I'll add that for convience.
Stupid Harwil switch works intermitantly. You can lightly tap it and it stops or starts agin. I had one like this before that would suddenly fail. Easier to just replace it. I'm not even going to bother to take it apart.
I ran it on high heat, medium speed, with one zipper attached and maintained 195. My thermal wave held 220. I attached two zippers and it held at 170, my thermal wave, barely 140. I was expecting much better heat. Nothing is bypassing. All the fittings that go to the tank are cool. They show a video using two spinners with much higher pressure holding better heat. The recovery is almost instant, but so is the temperature drop. Something is off there.
The check engine light came on after 30 minutes, running it at high heat and high temp, with two zippers attached. Water started pouring out the radiator fitting for the thermal well and ran for about 5 minutes until I pulled and reconnected the garden hose. That was the second or third time that it did that. Luckily I drilled a hole and ran it underneath. Something's going on. The light went off after I slowed the speed to medium. It idled rough after that, and I thought it was going to die. It never did. I don't know if it stored a code. It's to slow to check, and it's blazing outside!!! I'll add a permanent switch so I can check codes easily.
For those that keep saying where's your supplier he was always there. He even offered to meet today Sunday at 2. However, nobody except someone like Jim Martin could do a better job than I would. I'm very meticulous. I cleaned out under the machine spotless. Then I cleaned the walls. Every thing got measured, placed, and every bolt got polyurethaned. I'm far to finicky to let someone else do it. I know the distrubitors don't like to hear it but I probably have more knowledge than most that are installing their machines. I used to build custom furniture and that definitely caries over.
I don't blame anybody about the plug. There is no pressure on it, at all, but when you put the fuel box together you have to bend the wire over. There's no choice. I have a big loop inside, before the wire feeds out. I made it so it pulls the least possible. The shield and tape are to close to the plug, and that causes extra pressure on the wire. When they ran it at
Sapphire, the guy might have pulled on the wire, instead of the plug, to disconnect it. And, that was all it took. It shouldn't come out that easy.
Gene
