Encapsulating upholstery

[Desk Jockey]

I believe he is out buying slip-on's. He can't figure out how to tie his shoes.

 

[hogjowl]

I'm here, and both of you retards can KMA.

 

[dgardner]

I'm here, and both of you retards can KMA.

Keep Marty Agitated?

 

[Scott S.]

here guys I made this video a few minutes ago for ya.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I'm here, and both of you retards can KMA.

Jimmy & Mike?

 

[Jimmy L]

I have a cyclo polisher and have had it for 15 years.

Steve can you show us something more evolving than the same crap that we've been doing for years?

You're kind of sounding that Joel Hennop one of those VLM klowns who posts stupid videos too.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Good to have you back James...and I don't want to get all sappy on you... but I missed you.

Oh and you can KMA for leaving me here alone with Marty.

 

[Mark Saiger]

Oh dear Gawd........I've been using this simple SHAMPOO method since the late 90's.
And if you don't think these encap scampoos aren't SHAMPOOS then well you've been reading too many fruit loops boxes.

It is simply amazing when someone discovers something OLD and suddenly makes it NEW.
But in reality it all reminds me of a time when I had a retard grocery bagger take several minutes to explain to me how he was bagging my groceries and the difference between paper and plastic sacks.

Jimmy's back!!!

 

[Jimmy L]

I was submitted to a family intervention. Shock therapy was administered. It only enraged me.
Then was tied to a dental chair. A long needle was placed into the corner of my eye socket. It went deep and some brain parts were extracted . And in the end......................it had NO effect.

And so that's why I'm here!

 

[Mikey P]

I would break this 30 year long meat fast to nibble on your brain Jimmy.

 

[Jimmy L]

If you're going to go that far you'll have to nibble on one of my TURDS first.

 

[Ivan Turner]

Jimmy, you never stop cracking me up. Thank You for the laughs!

 

[Jimmy L]

I am supposed to be funny?

How insulting............

 

[Shane Deubell]

 

[Wing It]

If you encap upholstery, does applying a protector before it dries clash with the encap detergent?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

My son, Jason, made his own encap sauce 10 plus years ago and carpet protector was one of his ingredients then.

He did a difficult furniture store with it for years. White plush always looked amazing.

 

[Scott S.]

There is encapuclean with Maxim in it that interlink sells, Jim pemberton can probably give you his two cents on this since he is the upholstery king.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

You're too kind Scott. I just happen to like the subject.

Scott Warrington should answer this, as the representative of the manufacturer. I'll just add what I know from experience, and that doesn't mean my answer is nearly right:

(I apologize to any who hate long threads, this is going to be an article....)

1. The protection in most encapsulation products is primarily one that imparts an ability to resist dry soil. That doesn't mean there can't be some spill resistance, but I've yet to see anything nearly as effective as a post treatment of protector after hot water extraction.

2. The addition of an acid dye resistor to such products enhances acid dye resistance, but acid dye resistors do not seem to improve resistance to other water based spills, or oil spills.

3. When using encapsulant products for cleaning upholstery, we primarily are using them as a "shampoo" (with a nod to Jimmy Ladwig) that happens to have some very good soil removal characteristics not often found in conventional upholstery cleaning shampoos. Following up with towel extraction and/or wet vacuuming removes most of the product, which is desirable in upholstery cleaning. That also means that any "built in protection" would be somewhat limited afterward.

4. Compatibility with protector? This part is something that is best answered by Scott, or outside of BP products, Rick Gelinas. I will only say that I have found that upholstery protectors often fail to live up to the "watch how good this works on a napkin" hype when applied to fabrics that have any detergent residue left over. Make no mistake: Even when you "rinse" afterward, most upholstery cleaning preconditioners are difficult to rinse from the fabric, especially when we deliberately use "low wetting tools" to prevent other problems of browning and bleeding. In many ways, we leave as much detergent in upholstery fabric as a "dry foam guy" does, unless the fabric is only lightly soiled and we keep our preconditioning step at a "light mist" application.

Unless the protection manufacturers can show me otherwise, I don't see great results with furniture protection unless the furniture is only lightly soiled and very thoroughly rinsed.

I have not yet tried this after an encap cleaning of furniture....I will be doing that this week just because this question really piques my interest.

Of course, any of you can (and should) do the same. Its not like this is the busiest time of year out there....

 

[PrimaDonna]

We apply protector after we encap carpets on some of our commercial jobs. I know this is an upholstery thread, but since folks were asking about encap and protection, I thought I'd throw that out there.

 

[Scott S.]

Awesome response Jim, I'm curious as to what Scott w. Says.

I use encap for upholstery when the product can remove the bulk of the dirt, yet leave the fabric nearly dry when done, especially when it's chairs like you saw in the video, which often have food and drinks spilled on them and wicking is a high probability, plus I can clean them cheaper than hwe, yet still make money for my time spent.

The hand bonnet works well, you just have to keep the dirt rinsed out of it as it builds up quickly. When I go to use the brush again, that I showed everyone in the video I'll post another video, I will probably wipe the fabric down with a microfiber after that though.

When I'm down at pembertons again I'll take the tool down and get Jim pembertons opinion on it also.

 

[GreenTechAgain]

But in reality it all reminds me of a time when I had a retard grocery bagger take several minutes to explain to me how he was bagging my groceries and the difference between paper and plastic sacks.

Thank you for my laugh of the day.

I don't know what you look like, but I can imagine the look on your face.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I don't know what you look like,

Have you ever see Brad Pitt?

Ya well Jimmy looks NOTHING like that!

 

[Shane Deubell]

 

[hogjowl]

Jimmy looks just like Frank ... on his avatar.

That's why it's his avatar.

 

[Shane Deubell]

Makes sense, always pictured him like Fish from barney miller.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Makes sense, always pictured him like Fish from barney miller.

No Shane he just smells like "Fish"...rotten fish in a hot summers sun.


However back to the topic. We never apply a protector to encaped carpet until after its dried.

The reality is we encap commercial carpet and they rarely if ever have protectant applied.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

You're too kind Scott. I just happen to like the subject.

Scott Warrington should answer this, as the representative of the manufacturer. I'll just add what I know from experience, and that doesn't mean my answer is nearly right:

(I apologize to any who hate long threads, this is going to be an article....)

1. The protection in most encapsulation products is primarily one that imparts an ability to resist dry soil. That doesn't mean there can't be some spill resistance, but I've yet to see anything nearly as effective as a post treatment of protector after hot water extraction.

2. The addition of an acid dye resistor to such products enhances acid dye resistance, but acid dye resistors do not seem to improve resistance to other water based spills, or oil spills.

3. When using encapsulant products for cleaning upholstery, we primarily are using them as a "shampoo" (with a nod to Jimmy Ladwig) that happens to have some very good soil removal characteristics not often found in conventional upholstery cleaning shampoos. Following up with towel extraction and/or wet vacuuming removes most of the product, which is desirable in upholstery cleaning. That also means that any "built in protection" would be somewhat limited afterward.

4. Compatibility with protector? This part is something that is best answered by Scott, or outside of BP products, Rick Gelinas. I will only say that I have found that upholstery protectors often fail to live up to the "watch how good this works on a napkin" hype when applied to fabrics that have any detergent residue left over. Make no mistake: Even when you "rinse" afterward, most upholstery cleaning preconditioners are difficult to rinse from the fabric, especially when we deliberately use "low wetting tools" to prevent other problems of browning and bleeding. In many ways, we leave as much detergent in upholstery fabric as a "dry foam guy" does, unless the fabric is only lightly soiled and we keep our preconditioning step at a "light mist" application.

Unless the protection manufacturers can show me otherwise, I don't see great results with furniture protection unless the furniture is only lightly soiled and very thoroughly rinsed.

I have not yet tried this after an encap cleaning of furniture....I will be doing that this week just because this question really piques my interest.

Of course, any of you can (and should) do the same. Its not like this is the busiest time of year out there....

I hope some of you will test what products you use to see what the result might be.

Here are the results of today's test:

I was surprised to find that the protector I use for upholstery worked as well on fabric that I cleaned with encapsulation as it did on the same fabric that was preconditioned and rinsed.

I did go over the material with an orbital buffer and a clean white towel to extract as much of the encapsulant and loosened soil as I possibly could.

If anyone wants to know the products I used and what steps that I took, either PM me here or email me at jimscleanchat@gmail.com

Don't take my word for any of this. Test with your products and cleaning methods and see what results your customers are getting (or could be getting) when you apply protector.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Jim was that protector applied after cleaning or after it dried and then applied?

Would it matter wet or dry?

 

[Jim Pemberton]

I applied it within about 15 minutes of cleaning. I was trying to simulate the sorts of things that happen on the job in the real world.

Most upholstery protectors seem to work better when the fabric is drier than not, but in this case between the low humidity we are experiencing and how much I had towel extracted the surface, it was close to dry when I applied the protector.

I need to do this test on some natural fiber fabrics when I can find the right materials to compare. This was easy because I used nylon classroom chairs that were moderately soiled and spotted and were typical of the type a cleaner would get for a commercial upholstery cleaning job.

 

[Scott S.]

So what about encapuclean with the protectant built into it, any tests on that?