HOW TO FLUSH A BLOWER?

Jim Morrison

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Hey Jimmy are you still running the Cleanco? Not sure if you have the PTI unit. I'm still running my 07 Compact 47 with PTI.

I just spin off the blower filters, run the unit at the upholstery setting and run hot water through it with a garden hose nozzle flowing low to medium. You can keep an eye on the colour of the water getting blown out of the silencer. When the water starts to clear up I turn off the garden hose. Just run the unit at high untill no more water is coming out of the silencer and your done.

A couple years ago I saw a totally gunked up heat exchanger pulled out of a Cleanco at Fibreclean. The operator was a heavy WD40 user. I quit using WD at that point and just flush the blower several times a year. I think it should be standard practice to flush blowers but you don't see it in any of the Cleanco maintenance literature.
 

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Look up the Butler manual and it gives you a good idea of how it's done. Pretty simple.
 

Jimmy L

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Someone told me to mist a prespray into the blower opening at the filters. Run it at the upholstery setting. Run about 5 gallons and then run clear water thru. Run it at high setting to dry it out. 03 quad 56 here
 

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The operator was a heavy WD40 user. I quit using WD at that point and just flush the blower several times a year.
My understanding that the WD40 is used to flush the water that may have gotten on the blower lobes to prevent them from rusting.
I've never purposely flushed my blowers-- but doing so might improve the performance of the blower heat exchanger, I guess.
 
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Jim Morrison

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My understanding that the WD40 is used to flush the water that may have gotten on the blower lobes to prevent them from rusting.
That is my understanding to. After I finish the last job of the day I remove the vac hose lid and let the unit run for a couple minutes to dry the blower off. Cleancos might be designed different from some units, their blower basically hangs off the side of the waste tank so getting rid of any moisture is fast.
 

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hot blower
stream of clear water thru WD lube port

it steams the crud off

I thought Bob was crazy when he suggested it .
But I gave it a try .
Did it regular ever since

I wouldn't want the muck that comes out going into a HX'er though
IF that's applicable to CleanCold TMs
(or any other TM HX'er that captures blower exhaust)

..L.T.A.
 

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Sure I don't have any blower exhaust exchangers just the 4 coolant ones between the seats.
 

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if you have a lube port
run a stream of clear water into a HOT blower for 30-40 seconds til the mud brown gunk is light to white

run for a few minutes to dry

..L.T.A.
 
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Jim Morrison

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if you have a lube port
run a stream of clear water into a HOT blower for 30-40 seconds til the mud brown gunk is light to white
He's gonna want to flush right into the blower filter holes, the lube hole is about 1/32" no helpful amount of water is going to flow thru that.
 

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I run one gallon of rtu prespray thru first followed by one to two gallons of clear water. Run for 5-10 minutes to dry followed by one oz of kroil and run until smell of kroil is gone. All run on high speed on a butler.
 
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Ed Valentine

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jiMmy;

Great advice above, especially the one referring indirectly to the use of EX-LAX. But, I would agree with what Larry said. I would flush it with warm water until clean. Then follow with something like WD-40, or even, something like Wessen Oil.

Just make sure you wear your googles and your Tin Foil hat with propeller!
 
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If you put a cast iron frying pan on the stove, heat it up, then throw it in the sink full of water, what happens?
IT WARPS!!!!! Same thing with the lobes on your blower...... only thing a guy should run into his blower is LPS TKX lubricant.... 10-20 second spray, run the blower for 5-10 min. Without the vac port covered to dissipate any residual lube, and to dry out any remaining moisture .... that’s what I’ve been told..... I think I’ll stick with that advice....
 
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totally makes sense to me.

be a whole lot of crashing lobes if so.
I'm sure there's more than few that have sucked water from the waste tank

don't know how hot a lobe gets under load
But bet it's not hot enough to sear a steak ...or warp a heavy, thick chunk of cast




BTW, blower manufacture, TM manufacture or disty?


..L.T.A.
 
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be a whole lot of crashing lobes if so.
I'm sure there's more than few that have sucked water from the waste tank

don't know how hot a lobe gets under load
But bet it's not hot enough to sear a steak ...or warp a heavy, thick chunk of cast




BTW, blower manufacture, TM manufacture or disty?


..L.T.A.
TM.
 

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If you put a cast iron frying pan on the stove, heat it up, then throw it in the sink full of water, what happens?
IT WARPS!!!!! Same thing with the lobes on your blower...... only thing a guy should run into his blower is LPS TKX lubricant.... 10-20 second spray, run the blower for 5-10 min. Without the vac port covered to dissipate any residual lube, and to dry out any remaining moisture .... that’s what I’ve been told..... I think I’ll stick with that advice....
WHAT are you running Mattel blowers?

Horsefooe!
 

Andy

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If you put a cast iron frying pan on the stove, heat it up, then throw it in the sink full of water, what happens?
IT WARPS!!!!! Same thing with the lobes on your blower...... only thing a guy should run into his blower is LPS TKX lubricant.... 10-20 second spray, run the blower for 5-10 min. Without the vac port covered to dissipate any residual lube, and to dry out any remaining moisture .... that’s what I’ve been told..... I think I’ll stick with that advice...
1. Your blower is not getting even close to the temperature of the frying pan.
2. The construction of the blower lobe is not a piece of flat iron turning in the blower. The lobes are hollowed out so the back side of the blower will keep the front side stable.
3. You are not immersing the blower lobe in water, the water is really just being sprayed on the lobe slowly and you are only putting water on one side.
 

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