Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Especially if it's properly anodized.
Joe, I don't what you are basing your judgements on. Maybe you saw one neglected Hydramaster somewhere and think they are all like that. Hydramaster cds has been one of the most popular tm in my area and we always have 1990's models coming up for sale in good shape except for the truck rusting all around it. If you do a proper install, meaning a good quality Rhino lining, insulate it well and keep it clean, I guarantee it will outlast any truck you put it in. And no, I don't work for Hydramaster but they can send me free stuff if they want.So instead of insisting on better materials, you choose to settle? Why not just build it 100% the first time, and be done with it? Imagine a xDRIVE in a Diesel Sprinter... I want solid equip that's going to last the same amount time of host vehicle.
This makes sense to me because I never had issues with Hydra Master waste tanks but we were cleaning mostly nylon carpets and our chemicals weren't as high ph. This has become an issue generally with aluminum waste tanks so I am wondering why Hydra Master hasn't switched materials to Stainless Steel. These are the things that make die hard Hydra Master Owners consider other options...in my case Butler.If your waste tank spends a lot of time filled with highly alkaline waste then chemical attack is likely.
Chris, It's ALL about rinsing the tank. Our techs rinse the CDS tanks at the end of every shift. Ten years later the tanks are close to new inside.My 2009 cds has had a holy waste tank for 4-5 years now. I'm not a regular tank rinser but I do keep the filters clean and the crud cleaned off the sides of the tank. I think dissimilar metals are the culprit but they definitely have their issues
The problem with stainless steel is it will probably add to the cost and to the weight of the unit. Stainless steel will corrode just as fast if you use dissimilar metals or high ph products. The aluminum waste tank I am currently using was manufactured in 1984. No corrosion in sight. Most corrosion will be from operator error. Bolting things to the tank using steel screws, putting galvinized steel fittings, etc. With the new modern cleaning chemicals available today, there is no need for so called "nuclear" chemicals. Instead of trying to burn off soil, maybe try scrubbing with a crb or rotary tool. Make sure you dump your waste tank at the end of every job. Don't leave it overnight. I don't think manufacturers use aluminum because it is cheaper, it's a lot more versatile, lighter and performs well when used as directed.This makes sense to me because I never had issues with Hydra Master waste tanks but we were cleaning mostly nylon carpets and our chemicals weren't as high ph. This has become an issue generally with aluminum waste tanks so I am wondering why Hydra Master hasn't switched materials to Stainless Steel. These are the things that make die hard Hydra Master Owners consider other options...in my case Butler.
Maybe the alloy has changed or thickness with recent waste tanks? I am hearing a few guys complain about this issue with newer machines...not new but not 32 years old machines. Stainless seems better than aluminum for something that is holding water like waste tanks and better than plastic for fresh water tanks. IMO.The aluminum waste tank I am currently using was manufactured in 1984. No corrosion in sight.
The waste tank is all that remains of my original truck mount. It is just so well built, I have transferred from truck to truck. It's on its fourth truck now. My old Hydramaster had aluminum tanks as well. (1991) Never had an issue. I have a 1990's era Steamway tank sitting in my driveway ready to go into another truck. You're right, I seem to be hearing it on newer trucks. I don't know the specific alloy that my tanks have been made of but normally it's 3/16 marine aluminum. It has to be the right alloy or it can get brittle with salts and age. My portable machine is all aluminum and no corrosion to speak of. All of the fittings are brass or plastic. It's possible the manufacturers are cheaping out, wouldn't be the first time but from one alloy to the next, how much could you actually save? The frame on my refurbished Steamway is all unpainted aluminum as well. looks as strong as the day it was built.Maybe the alloy has changed or thickness with recent waste tanks? I am hearing a few guys complain about this issue with newer machines...not new but not 32 years old machines. Stainless seems better than aluminum for something that is holding water like waste tanks and better than plastic for fresh water tanks. IMO.
1984... is the rest of your truck mount that old? I had a couple of really good truck mounts in 1984... very well made.![]()
I think 200 dollars may be enough for a company that doesn't manufacturer their own tanks to make the cheap out decision. Weight could also be a reason to make it lighter and therefore less material. 2 year warranty... 3 on the frame? Probably a combination of all the above. Atlas it isn't rust like SS...On a typical tank the material savings would be less than $200.
I posted this before. If you're frugal you make your own from a piece of tubing. No more difficulty.Difficult to maintain. The shaft in the old ones was hard to reach in order to grease. (For those of us that were not blessed with maintenance crew, like some in the north west.)
The plastic fittings were the same ones used by new car manufacturers. We know that we'll be replacing GM stock plastic fittings too, the difference is HM stopped using them when issues appeared, GM keeps using them.Did they try to use cheap parts as they did for awhile (plastic replacing metal parts). Hard to correct a bad impression due to bad decisions. "Fool me once......".
Hmmm. Overly? They'll be more complicated than a drive shaft, but like V-8 engines, shafts aren't going to be around long.Will they be overly complicated. So every little thing that goes wrong will require a trip to the shop.
Vacuum and heat are better than The stock CDS, even with Salsa. No matter how much testing is done, reliability can only be proven by putting hours on them in the field. Users that have a talent for breaking weak links are part of the program.And of course, will the vacuum and heat be more or less in the same ballpark and most importantly- how dependable are they going to be?
How many hours have you currently logged?I posted this before. If you're frugal you make your own from a piece of tubing. No more difficulty.View attachment 18118
The plastic fittings were the same ones used by new car manufacturers. We know that we'll be replacing GM stock plastic fittings too, the difference is HM stopped using them when issues appeared, GM keeps using them.
Hmmm. Overly? They'll be more complicated than a drive shaft, but like V-8 engines, shafts aren't going to be around long.
Vacuum and heat are better than The stock CDS, even with Salsa. No matter how much testing is done, reliability can only be proven by putting hours on them in the field. Users that have a talent for breaking weak links are part of the program.
Sorry Ron, no can do....Probably not but it would be nice to be able to use it as a backup generator if your power went out
Too bad, that would come in handy in Florida right about now. Hope all of our guys out there make through the next few days,
It's a big powerful storm but the eye has stayed well off shore so Florida should get through this OK. The Bahamas are getting pounded right now... Freeport... but the news follows the ratings... we will see what happens past Florida though.No kidding. The wife's been watching the weather channel all day, it sounds pretty grim.