Indentations.... what's your tip?

JohnHawkP

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John Paton
TimePhoto_20180730_124948.jpg

I cleaned this carpet today and you may notice a couple of indentations on the left wall.

Once the carpet is dry I advise the client to fill up the indentations with water. This releases the tension in the face yarn.

What do you guys advise?
 

Dolly Llama

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must be nylon?
regardless, damnfine job

depending on carpet type, fiber, furniture weight and length of time, we'd had success vary from damnfine to damnlittle

our method;
spray scalding hot from wand, dwell , give 'er some aggressive chop strokes .
if needed, scalding hot again, dwell and hose cuff the carpet


crushed pad can take days to weeks of traffic to fully rebound though

.LT.A.
 

Cleanworks

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Usually it's the backing that's crushed. When you rip out carpet, you will usually see large bulges on the backside where the furniture was. Carpets with soft backings rebound quite easily. Carpets with stiff backings take a lot more work.
 

ruff

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Takes a lot of time to fix a long area, so unless the client is willing to spend the $$, these heat treatments are not practical. And there's a difference between a crush by a light furniture or something really heavy.

All the heat methods rely mostly on the fabric's heat memory and yes it will spring back up, but it does not do much to the glue layer and or secondary backing and nothing at all to the crushed pad. In my experience most crushed pads never fully recover.

You can use lots of extra heat to soften and then pull up (straighten) the glue layer and secondary backing (if through lots of water you need to consider how much damage is done to the latex/clay layer) and if with steam is the client willing to pay for the extra time. However many times eventually it will go back to the way it was (though somewhat less) once its exposed to weight and traffic, because there's nothing beneath that supports the tufts and backing long term and the bend creates its own "memory".

As an eternal optimist I present it to my clients that they will not have to guess where the furniture goes back. :winky:
 
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Cleanworks

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Takes a lot of time to fix a long area, so unless they client is willing to spend the $$, these heat treatments are not practical. And there's a difference between a crush by a light furniture or something really heavy.

All the heat methods rely mostly on the fabric's heat memory and yes it will spring back up, but it does not do much to the glue layer and or secondary backing and nothing at all to the crushed pad. n my experience most crushed pads never fully recover.

You can use lots of extra heat to soften and then pull up (straighten) the glue layer and secondary backing (if through lots of water you need to consider how much damage is done to the latex/clay layer) and if with steam is the client willing to pay for the extra time. However many times eventually it will go back to the way it was (though less) once its exposed to weight and traffic, because there's nothing beneath that supports the tufts long term.

As an eternal optimist I present it to my clients that they will not have to guess where the furniture goes back. :winky:
Eternal optimist? The way you layed it out, there's just no hope. That's just the way it is and it's gonna stay like that.
 

ruff

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Not unless the client is willing to pay for all the ponies. Most clients when presented with the choice and a clear $ figure, guess what their choice is?

You may call me the practical optimist :winky:

Besides, I love it when I don't have to guess where the furniture goes back.
 

Ron K

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After pre-conditioning as I enter the room I fill depressons with water from the Wand the hotter the better then clean my way out when I get to the wet spot (ad wise ass comment here) I take my glide off and agitate with edge of wand and clean as usual. Works for us.
 
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JohnHawkP

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After pre-conditioning as I enter the room I fill depressons with water from the Wand the hotter the better then clean my way out when I get to the wet spot (ad wise ass comment here) I take my glide off and agitate with edge of wand and clean as usual. Works for us.

Is that an upsell?

Or just "part of the service maam"
 

Rick J

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Lee is right on the money. If the bcking is warped it may not be quicky reversable. Thick pad allowing the furniture to push the capet down and warp the backing.
You can often use your cuff and pop them up, but they may go right back.

Thick pad feels nice , but allows the carpet to werar out faster as well.due to the greater flexing underfoot, and a greater possibility of delamination.
 

Old Coastie

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For furniture leg spots, use an electric kettle to make boiling water. Pour it on the spot and set the kettle on something safe.
Immediately clamp the cuff over the spot to draw the water out, lifting the momentarly softened everything. Keep the suction on for a little while.

It works or it doesn’t. Mild squashes come out, deep squashes only partially come out.
 

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