Ron Werner answered this same question on FB...
Dreamland. My ideal wand.
Water jets are spraying straight down onto the carpet, hitting between 2 vacuum slots about 1/4in apart. That way whether pushing forward or backward, the water is being picked up the same. Water is being extracted whether the wand is moving or stationary. A spot can be flushed just by jetting on a spot, rather than flooded and extracted like old style wands. John LaBarbera had a prototype but it never went to production.
This is not like the zipper, but like a regular wand.
If not viable, have angled jets hitting just behind the vac so again, water is being extracted even if the wand is stationary, allowing ability to flush rather than flood
Wand head height is not more than 3"
Wand head is on a swivel,
has a window.
Glided
1 3/4" tube, easier on the hand but still more open than normal 1 1/2 allowing more air to the carpet
Put a flare on the end so it easily connects to 2" hose
Double bend, little shorter than the
Maxflow, little longer than the Dangpro. Only talking a couple inches difference.
The wand head has a good weight to it, the tube light, so all the weight is on the head, no need to use the assist handle to keep the head on the carpet.
Wand face comes off to clean out hairs.
I like the 14" wand width over the 12", allows getting into some tighter corners better.
4 jets to maximize water drop size, using 03 jets
Uses a thumb trigger vs a finger trigger. Less stress on the wrist, ie carpel, no trigger finger problems. Can maintain a good grip while triggering. Traditional triggers always require letting go of the wand with the 2 strongest fingers in order to activate the trigger, plus squeezing the trigger would bring the trigger down on the other fingers.
A silicon or rubbery wand sleeve. Grip makes a huge difference in how hard I squeeze my hand to hold the wand. If I have a easy grip I don't have to squeeze so hard, makes it easier on the forearm and the elbow.
The high assist handle, made of plastic to avoid marking floors
Good check valves on the jets
The splitter for the hoses to the manifolds is located at the top of the wand at the trigger rather than at the bend of the wand down by the head. Removes that splitter box so it doesn't catch on things.
Splash shields on the wand head are cut up on an angle at the side of the wand rather than going down to the floor. Allows getting into corners better.
Have a light thin brush on the front side of the wand head so it grooms the carpet on the back stroke, stiff enough so it can be used to scrub a spot if needed
Temp gauge for sure
Small pressure gauge maybe
Stainless braided teflon hoses on the wand with plastic protective wrap
Quick connects to connect hose to manifolds, doubles as swivel
An adaptor to attach to the wand head to facilitate cleaning hard sfc. Think of a skate guard that snaps on and off, without having to change the wand.
All I can think of off the top of my head
Most of these already exist.
My reply:
First off Ron, thank you for giving me the opportunity to spout off on a subject that’s really been on the top of my mind as of late. Your comments about your “Super Flusher” carpet wand concept have prodded me to put down some thoughts that are long overdue.
Be warned though, you being the world’s most infamous Over Cleaner of Flooring Textiles, may blow a gasket over this so you may want to keep scrolling if you are on any sort of heart medication..
We as an industry would behoove the future generation of carpet cleaners, carpet owners, carpet manufacturers and carpet cleaning tool designers to make it a mandated law that in order to clean, own or design cleaning tools for wall to wall carpeting, all four sectors MUST spend a day in a rug washing plant to see with their own eyes JUST HOW MUCH WATER IT TAKES TO COMPLETELY FLUSH A RUG OF ALL IT’S CONTAMINATES.
While the popularity of rug washing videos on social media has exploded, one must see it, or do it, firsthand to (hopefully) grasp just how much water AND effort AND time it takes to “sanitize” or fully clean an 8x10 rug.
Let me cut to the chase,
it is physically and gravitationally IMPOSSIBLE to “flush” (a word Ron loves to use)
a dirty or filthy installed broadloom carpet.
Fact, plain and simple.
But, unfortunately our industry with it’s water claws and sight tubes and wand windows and rotary extractors has lead us to believe that Flushing should be our goal. The manufacturers make it sound like it’s possible with their (false) claims of stain, odor, germ, and wear resistances, or worse, “proofs”. They are equally to blame for this fairytale of gravity defying proportions. I say equally in that 98% of us cleaners claim the same BS on the sides of our vans and the back of our business cards.
Can we cleaners get a wall-to-wall carpet perfectly clean? Sure!
Assuming there are two or less people in the home, no pets or kids, a brush roll equipped and properly maintained upright vacuum gets used (slowly) once a week and they have us out to maintain the carpet every year or so. Oh, and let’s hope they don’t live in a sandy, windy area and have well sealed windows.
Getting back to the rug washing scenario, it takes hundreds of gallons to flush a dirty or filthy 8x10. The amount of water used to
Steam Clean the open areas of a 1800 sf track home is less than 60 gallons on average. Considering those numbers, for us cleaners to think that our truckmounts and portables have the magical ability to thoroughly remove impacted soil from the base of the yards, the (porous) backing, under the backing and on top of the pad, inside the pad and under the pad is a disillusionment of disgusting and nearly criminal proportions. Add pet or human bodily waste into the mix and now the word’s “Germ Warfare” can be thrown into the mix.
It’s not our duty or responsibility to correct the wrongs of consumer ignorance and irresponsibility.
If floor owners let their carpet get so soiled that only a rug washing procedure could stand a chance of fully cleaning it top to bottom, that is their problem. For us cleaners to foolishly believe we can solve that problem with chemistry and “FLUSHING” with our window equipped extractor tools and charge money based on false claims, is borderline criminal.
We the cleaners need to stop using wands that spray straight down, we need to stop using Waterclaws, we need to stop lying to our precious clients about our ability to flush the pad of its contaminants., we need to learn when enough is enough, and when to stop going over a spot regardless of dark water seen in the wand window, we need to learn and accept the fact that “just” cleaning the top 25% of the yarn is often more than enough to satisfy the client and the greater good of the carpet cleaning and producing industries.
Slow drying and stinky bacteria laden odors and browning and streaking and reappearing spots are what lead consumers to try their luck with the countless Hard Surface alternatives, that they
assume they won’t need to hire a professional to keep clean. That assumption is usually proven wrong after twelve months or so of relying on a robotic vacuum, a string mops, Swifter or Fabuloso to clean grout, faux wood grain, deep joints or porous stone and tile alternatives…
We cleaners need to slow down, charge more and do the dry vacuuming ourselves, apply great and proper pre-spray, let it dwell and agitate if needed, and be very deliberate with our wand strokes and additional dry/cleaning strokes and know when to use low pressure and know when to use a VLM system which is way more often than you think, and a subject for another day.
We need to get over our needs to be Superheroes and in the words of Kurt Vonnegut, “If you can do no good, at least do no harm..”
Over and out, I’m off to go try and find my cabin at 9800 elevation, which is probably under 30 feet of Sierra Cement, and is in desperate need of a good carpet cleaning.