Red Wine and Cotton

[BIG WOOD]

Can I get a reminder on how to treat red wine on a fabric like this? The white spots are my last attempt to remove a different stain. It was a red40 stain. How should I approach this new dilemma without weakening the color any more?

 

[Cleanworks]

Stop drinking so much

 

[Cleanworks]

Seriously, I always start with an acidic prespray followed by a neutral rinse. Remove as much as possible then switch to something like Prochem for fine fabrics and cotton. It has a fairly strong reducer in it. Prespray, let dwell for 10-15 minutes, rinse with neutral cleaner and repeat. If you have rinsed it well and you still have some staining, treat with a peroxide coffee stain remover.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

What kind of fiber is in the fabric? You don't have to be specific, just does it crumble or melt if you burn it?

I'm not trying to play the annoying instructor, believe me. If you can tell me, I can help you with some specific stain removal formulas.

(Ron's aren't a bad idea either, to be clear)

 

[BIG WOOD]

What kind of fiber is in the fabric? You don't have to be specific, just does it crumble or melt if you burn it?

I'm not trying to play the annoying instructor, believe me. If you can tell me, I can help you with some specific stain removal formulas.

(Ron's aren't a bad idea either, to be clear)

It's natural fiber, it crumbles

 

[Jim Pemberton]

OK.

Ron's advice is especially good here:

If the wine doesn't have red dye 40 in it (some cheap stuff does), you'll get some of that out just by cleaning it with the formula he gave you. A cotton cleaning detergent that has a strong reducer should have enough guts to knock out the rest of the stain, as naturally colored red wine is a lot like coffee.

If you decide to go with peroxide, make sure you get all the cotton cleaner rinsed out, as it will work against the oxidizing activity of the peroxide.
If you need to go with peroxide, just use 3% mixed full strength with a couple of drops of shampoo; that will make a "foamy peroxide" mix that you can lather on the stained area and put in the sun. If you keep it at 3% (what you get in the store) it shouldn't weaken the fabric.

 

[Papa John]

I wouldnt use acid rinse 1st.. it can set the dye in.
Id use stain 1 or stain magic first.
After several complete rinses, use red relief if needed.

 

[BIG WOOD]

OK.

Ron's advice is especially good here:

If the wine doesn't have red dye 40 in it (some cheap stuff does), you'll get some of that out just by cleaning it with the formula he gave you. A cotton cleaning detergent that has a strong reducer should have enough guts to knock out the rest of the stain, as naturally colored red wine is a lot like coffee.

If you decide to go with peroxide, make sure you get all the cotton cleaner rinsed out, as it will work against the oxidizing activity of the peroxide.
If you need to go with peroxide, just use 3% mixed full strength with a couple of drops of shampoo; that will make a "foamy peroxide" mix that you can lather on the stained area and put in the sun. If you keep it at 3% (what you get in the store) it shouldn't weaken the fabric.

Should I rinse it out with cold water to prevent any stain from locking in if it were hot?

 

[Jimmy L]

Shot gun with spritz of 40 vol and then a lite spritz of ammonia. Look for signs of stain fading and rinse it. : )
This ain't no disco.....this ain't no fooling around.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

Call me Matt...412-414-9129

 

[Mikey P]

Listen to Papa and Evil and you'll be putting that thing in your living room.

 

[Lyman]

A signed waiver is first, don't make this your issue. Hero or a zero

 

[Mark Saiger]

OK.

Ron's advice is especially good here:

If the wine doesn't have red dye 40 in it (some cheap stuff does), you'll get some of that out just by cleaning it with the formula he gave you. A cotton cleaning detergent that has a strong reducer should have enough guts to knock out the rest of the stain, as naturally colored red wine is a lot like coffee.

If you decide to go with peroxide, make sure you get all the cotton cleaner rinsed out, as it will work against the oxidizing activity of the peroxide.
If you need to go with peroxide, just use 3% mixed full strength with a couple of drops of shampoo; that will make a "foamy peroxide" mix that you can lather on the stained area and put in the sun. If you keep it at 3% (what you get in the store) it shouldn't weaken the fabric.

And the price of admission to this place is free!

You won't get advice like this everyday in many other places!

And Jim, I just got off the phone with a person from Florida who asked me about your class...and as I always say....you will learn more than you ever could expect when you are done with his class! It will be tough to find a better education on cleaning anywhere especially fine fabrics!

Thanks for sharing here!

 

[Papa John]

Bed wetters!
We use 40 vol and stain 1 or same as Jimmy suggested with no issues. Rinse well with cold water.

The class room keeps you safe. But greater reward comes to those who dare to take greater risks.

 

[BIG WOOD]

For all the guys that are telling me to use vol40...look at the white spots on the chair. That's from me using volume 40 last time I cleaned it. So volume 40 is on my list of things to leave in the trailer on this job.

 

[Nate The Great]

For all the guys that are telling me to use vol40...look at the white spots on the chair. That's from me using volume 40 last time I cleaned it. So volume 40 is on my list of things to leave in the trailer on this job.

Spray it evenly then... evenly whiten it up...

 

[Lee Stockwell]

For all the guys that are telling me to use vol40...look at the white spots on the chair. That's from me using volume 40 last time I cleaned it. So volume 40 is on my list of things to leave in the trailer on this job.

x2!

Please listen to real experience. Ron Jim and Mike aren't blowing smoke.

As great as oxy is, it's not an "all purpose " cleaner.

 

[Papa John]

I can understand your apprehention then. Did u leave the 40 volume on too long? Or u soaked it with the 40 vol?--
when I use the stuff on Naturals I only lightly mist to see if i get a reaction. Rearly "nuke" it at 1st.

Ive been been very successful at removing red wine with stain one or hydrogen peroxide. But we also follow with acid rinse to bring the Ph back to neutral.
One more thing-- we rinse with only water 1st, before we add spotters. This way there is less "contaminate" for the spotter to work on- so we use less of it.

 

[SamIam]

Don't use 40 volume cut it in half,

Stain magic and red relief makes one for wool, what's the difference they cut the active ingredients by half.

So think interms of half or less.

 

[SamIam]

I cut my peroxide in half, rinse dry don't soak and let sit, a stripper can cause bleaching to.

But lightly hitting it and getting it in the sun to dry helps.

You should call Jim

 

[Lint Basket]

I need to take Jim's class. It's not just a want anymore.

 

[Mikey P]

So do Jimmy and Papa

 

[Papa John]

So do Jimmy and Papa

Much respect to Jim and Lee-- they will keep you SAFE.

But I've been trained by other respectable gurus and have moved on from "Safe".
I have a few secret chems that are even more intense the Stain 1-
The main thing IS-- you have to watch the chem reaction and know when to go to the next step-- you can't just spray and walk away.-- extreme care must still be taken.
living on the edge isn't for everyone.

Oh- I wonder if some are using 40% HP as 40 vol HP which are entirely different strengths. . And OXY clean isn't same as HP

 

[Cleanworks]

I wouldnt use acid rinse 1st.. it can set the dye in.
Id use stain 1 or stain magic first.
After several complete rinses, use red relief if needed.

Using an acid first won't set the stain in. Actually, it helps to reconstitute the wine that was spilled. Often, if you apply an alkaline product, it will turn the red wine stain into a blue or purple wine stain that will be set in. Wine is an acid so if you apply a like acid to it, it will mix and dilute the dye structure of the stain. Same as if you poured white wine into a glass of red wine, the color will weaken and if you pour enough, it will disappear. I often start with a browning treatment that is acidic with a mild reducer such as Chemspec Browning treatment. I usually add a small amount of neutral cleaner to give some suspension qualities. Often this will be enough to remove 50 to 75% of the stain on it's own, then I switch to the cotton cleaner with the stronger reducing agent. It's usually foolproof and safe. Not to say it's the only way.

 

[steve_64]

So do Jimmy and Papa

Me too.

As I'm getting better at all aspects of this trade I'm seeing more and more finer textiles.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Me too.

As I'm getting better at all aspects of this trade I'm seeing more and more finer textiles.

Do you know when to use a reducer instead of an oxidizing product? How each works?

 

[Cleanworks]

Do you know when to use a reducer instead of an oxidizing product? How each works?

rule of thumb is to use oxidizer on organic stains and reducer on synthetic stain. Problem is often you have a little of both in wine or coffee. Some wineries may add artificial dye to achieve a certain in their product. With coffee, it's often decaffeinated coffee that's the hardest to remove. Some decaffeination processes take a lot of the original color out of the coffee so they replace it with dye. Although it seems counter intuitive to use a reducer on an organic wine stain, personally, I find it the safer route to start with, then if I haven't removed all of it, my last step, after rinsing thoroughly, is to use a slow acting oxidizer like a 2 part peroxide/ammonia solution. Reducer works by taking away oxygen, oxidizer works by adding oxygen. We have had coffee stain reducing agents for years and if used properly, they work well. That's all we used until they came out with the 2 part peroxide stain removers. You have to have patience. They don't always work immediately.

 

[Jimmy L]

Like coastie says spray and see a reaction then rinse. Then repeat............go in guns blazin!

 

[Papa John]

When you Tie dye a shirt you lock in the color by dipping the shirt in vinager to set the dye in. That is why im hesitant to use an acid first in most cases.

I need to clarify somethings:
I have used the TERM "40 vol" as a substitute for Stain magic or Stain 1.
The three are NOT the same and do not behave the same. I was wrong to do this.
We have pretty much stopped using 40 vol And go with the real McCoy for over a year now- which are CTI products.
We mostly use Stain 1, we rarely use Red 1.
Stain 1, and stain magic are Not really the same, they behave differently. The same goes for Red 1 and Red Relief.

 

[SamIam]

rule of thumb is to use oxidizer on organic stains and reducer on synthetic stain. Problem is often you have a little of both in wine or coffee. Some wineries may add artificial dye to achieve a certain in their product. With coffee, it's often decaffeinated coffee that's the hardest to remove. Some decaffeination processes take a lot of the original color out of the coffee so they replace it with dye. Although it seems counter intuitive to use a reducer on an organic wine stain, personally, I find it the safer route to start with, then if I haven't removed all of it, my last step, after rinsing thoroughly, is to use a slow acting oxidizer like a 2 part peroxide/ammonia solution. Reducer works by taking away oxygen, oxidizer works by adding oxygen. We have had coffee stain reducing agents for years and if used properly, they work well. That's all we used until they came out with the 2 part peroxide stain removers. You have to have patience. They don't always work immediately.

Did Lee ask you?????