Super Grout Additive to the rescue

Two of these, some tile floors, kitchen counters and coming back to install Super Grout in the floor to tub joint.

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You shower guys should try this stuff if you havent yet..

 

Comments

#3
I now turn down most house cleanings since losing the elves.

I am curious; once you scraped the caulk with a razor, what did you use next? A solvent, or a 3m eraser wheel?
 
#5
Two of these, some tile floors, kitchen counters and coming back to install Super Grout in the floor to tub joint.

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You shower guys should try this stuff if you havent yet..

Let me know if you have any questions on the Ceramic Tile Pro Super Grout Additive®. I am the inventor and distributor and can help answer any questions about the product. It's a 100% solids epoxy, nothing magical but it works really well as a silicone/caulk replacement. We have a number of grout cleaning/restoration companies using it nationwide including a few well known franchises that are also on board. I personally use it for my tile contractor business including new shower floors. Please visit my Youtube channel for a number of videos that show me mix and apply it. thank you - jason
 
#6
Interesting product. Couple questions

So the porcelain tub to wall tile interface has a lot movement.

How much movement will this allow before failing? breaking or losing bond. How flexible is it as a percentage?


One concern in walk in showers is floor perimeter caulk trapping water in substrate, whereas grout allows vapor transmission.

Does this product allow vapor transmission?


And if it does not, is there mold/ mildew inhibitors to keep product from staining from the inside out. Like caulk



Must the joint be completely dry before applying?
 
#7
I’ll try to get some of my longtime clients to chime in and give their personal view on how they use Super Grout Additive®

It is not flexible, it’s just the opposite, extremely strong but if you have excessive movement it may not be your answer. If you can easily move the tub or similar suggesting that it wasn’t installed securely, I would let the customer know about that and let them decide if they want to use caulk that may develop mildew issues or the epoxy which may develop a hairline crack that you may be able to fill-in.
It does do a great job on any and all corners with minor expansion contraction without cracking. It is a good idea to vacuum any wet areas to allow the epoxy to bond properly. I don’t know if it allows vapor transmission but can ask my chemist and let you know.
 
#8
How about the idea of filling the bathtub with water before applying so that you're filling a larger void.. when they drain the tub after it hardens what do you think will happen to your product
 
#10
How about the idea of filling the bathtub with water before applying so that you're filling a larger void.. when they drain the tub after it hardens what do you think will happen to your product
I have only needed to do that a few times but in the thousands of showers I have re-caulked/now re-grouted with SGA and every time there's been a consultation with the client that "this gap is huge and I'll do my best"

As far as this product not having any flex it has not been an issue whatsoever...yet.

This is the type of product that you tell your friends about but hope that your competitors don't hear about :)
 
#12
Do's
Tell Client to allow to cure for 72 Hours before using in a shower or tub

Get Color approval...especially from the picky clients. Undersell how well the color is going to match (we dry mix and show them it will be close to that color but not exact)

Put "kits" together with plastic cups, syringes, mixing stick(s) or putty knife

Wear gloves (I like (wife likes) my hands nice and soft... despite the "Caulk" paronomasia I'm a flaming hetorosexual

Have various grout colors (We mix colors to get within "10-15%" match (*part of my turn on to this product is not having to stock a ton of silicone colors anymore...WAY LESS WASTE)

Mix it extra thick for big vertical gaps and/or do those gaps LAST. The product will start to firm up so do the horizontal surfaces 1st.

Be Patient. If there's a lot to do and you're on your own only mix up what your going to use. I've mixed up too much before on big jobs (over confidence) and wasted material. I HATE waste (see Paul Aker's 2 Second Lean)

I can actually silicone/caulk faster than I can SGA on most jobs, despite this, I know this product outlasts silicone.

Have a small plastic garbage bag for throwing away the empty bottles, gloves, sticks etc.

Mix over a towel or drop clothe

Prep area properly, Mix thoroughly

Dont's

Make a mess. I've had one of my guys leave a chunk of this on a clients door knob, chunks in tubs, sinks, etc. Make sure you clean up well. If you get this stuff on your pants/clothing it's tough to get off once it's cured.

Breathe in a bunch of grout dust. Silica sand is bad. A respirator isn't a bad idea.

Don't eat it.

If you live in Kitsap County Washington, don't use it. It won't cure properly
 
#13
Been trying to get my wife on this kinds of project. She's really good at fixing and restoring this kind of thing. Good at restoring a lot things actually. Good money in it i can imagine
 
#17
What are the benefits of "Super Grout"?
@GreenTechAgain , Benefits of using Super Grout Additive®

  1. No more call backs on issues using caulk/silicone such as mildew/mold, not bonding or peeling away, cracking or becoming brittle.
  2. charge a premium for a more professional repair
  3. Very little product is needed. As little as 1/2 kit or approx $15 per repair for a $175+ job.
  4. No chemicals needed, cleans with warm/hot water and microfiber towel.
  5. Mix any color grout so very little waste vs buying individual tubes of caulk for each color that may expire before using the complete contents.
  6. Easier to apply than 100% silicone
  7. Outperforms "Industry Standard" per TCNA hands down
  8. Can also be used as a traditional epoxy grout for new shower floor grout installations.
  9. 99% water, or just as waterproof as ceramic or porcelain tile.
  10. Never needs sealing
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    SGA.jpg
 
#20
Been trying to get my wife on this kinds of project. She's really good at fixing and restoring this kind of thing. Good at restoring a lot things actually. Good money in it i can imagine
There's good money but also the nice thing is that you don't have a lot of $invested or overhead. There's not equipment breakdowns (ok I've burned through a couple makita's)

You can get setup with some utility knifes, flat edge blades, and a vacuum cleaner. Having a makita and various pads helps if you're going to be doing hard water spot removal.

I have a Vapor Steam Cleaner but have done tons of showers/baths before I did have that.
 
#22
@Jason Pettinato Ive been watching a bunch of your youtube videos for a while now. One question I had was for removing old grout. In one video you removed it very easily with just a razor knife on some unsanded grout, if it doesnt come out that easily what is your tool of choice?

I saw one guy on youtube with a multi tool that he attached a shop vac to which seemed pretty fast and no mess. What do you think about the other electric tools? do you prefer to just remove by hand?

Its always a pain kind of for me, looking for a better system that is faster and clean as possible
 
#23
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@Acp , for unsanded or tight joints you can use the Hyde Regrout Tool with the pointed bit. Sanded or joints 1/8”+ a makita 4” angle grinder with diamond blade but that is very dusty and you have to be careful not to damage tile.

@Jason Pettinato Ive been watching a bunch of your youtube videos for a while now. One question I had was for removing old grout. In one video you removed it very easily with just a razor knife on some unsanded grout, if it doesnt come out that easily what is your tool of choice?

I saw one guy on youtube with a multi tool that he attached a shop vac to which seemed pretty fast and no mess. What do you think about the other electric tools? do you prefer to just remove by hand?

Its always a pain kind of for me, looking for a better system that is faster and clean as possible
 
#24
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You can also skim coat over grout, make sure the original grout has been scrubbed really well, sometimes an acid etch is necessary for proper bond
 
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