Super Grout Additive to the rescue
- Thread starter Mikey P
- Start date
Jason Pettinato
Member
Wow, ok
Why Florida doesn't require a license to install tile is beyond me. So does that mean any Joe off the street can simply open a tile installation business? That doesn't fly here over in California, anyone caught working without a contractor's license is fined, no warnings.
What's also interesting is how your business listing has you as "
Clean Image Of Orlando - Tile & Stone Contractor".
I would post a link but this is my 24thth post and apparently this board requires 25 before posting links. you can see the link in the pic.
TCNA does require sealant for change of plane areas, I mentioned that before, scroll up and you'll see that I probably mentioned that a few times. It's no secret. Silicone happens to be one type of sealant, there are others and that information is available online to the general public via The TCNA website for those who would like more info that.
Yes, SGA has not been approved by the TCNA, nor is on our list of things to do. We, and what I mean by "We" is that the Tile/Grout restoration industry understands that those recommendations (as that is all it is, a recommendation by the TCNA) are outdated. Again, I'm not alone on this. I said it before and I'll say it again, there is a HUGE disconnect between the Tile installation industry and Tile/Grout restoration industry. The TCNA is centered around new installations which is the exact opposite of the restoration industry. Most contractors, or non contractors who install tile rarely ever see there work again. However, the restoration industry are those who actually see how these outdated methods are performing.
Why is it that I get phone calls everyday from individuals who want to know more about SGA because silicone doesn't work in wet areas. I'm talking homeowners, DIY'ers, Contractors, Non Contractors and Hotels. My Youtube channel has been a great resource for this common issue.
Now I'm sure you will have something to say about how SGA is not TCNA approved and that you live by the TCNA handbook because there's a reason why epoxy shouldn't be used at corners, but I just did that for you so no need to keep repeating this debate.
This product is not for you and that's ok, it's not for everyone so unless you plan on testing it for yourself, your wasting time commenting on why it's not for you. Cool, awesome, move on buddy.
Final note, you mentioned the John Bridge forum which raises my question. If Mr. John Bridge himself has a view on this very subject, would you second guess his professional opinion?
F
FB19087
Guest
Let's not start doxing people..............
or telling people what to comment on or you will be moving on
Lastly, contact Mike for our current advertising rates...........
Jason Pettinato
Member
problem is that I know where this guy is going on this issue. I've dealt with it on other forums. He's posting information that is not true. Polyblend grout is available at Home Depots.
There's no intention of replacing it with Prism grout. I messaged Custom Building Product directly through facebook messenger where they confirmed what I have been saying.
I respect other individual opinions but have no problem expressing my views and will continue to do so if need be. Were all big boys here so a little heated debate is good.
The only threats I see are from you telling me I'm moving on if I don't shape up. I'll do that for you.
F
FB19087
Guest
I didn't say anything about threats. I said doxing and telling people what to comment on. No need to play internet sleuth on members or create forum conversation rules.
Also contact Mike about continuing to shill your product here.........
The Great Oz
Member
Mikey started it. From the first post to the responses from Jason, this thread felt like an introduction to a new advertiser.
I agree that challenges to marketers need to be answered with reasonable answers; maybe something that wasn't clear to Jason at the outset.
F
FB19087
Guest
continuing
Mikey P
Administrator
Continuing what?
F
FB19087
Guest
see pm
clean image
Member
Boy, some how I missed this.
In response to Jason
- I am a contractor according the definition:
—a person or company that undertakes a contract to provide materials or labor to perform a service or do a job.
And I am liscenced to perform these services.
I don’t know about that website you posted.... I challenge their “verifying” as those phone numbers are pretty old, 1is dead other not been actively used by me in over 15 years.
And maybe you or some stone installers in Cali can answer this, as I am curious. On MTL stone floor installs, with a butt install, 1/16”spacing, maximum allows tile lippage is 1/32”. So 1. So every floor installed meets these specs and basically there never is a need for grind in place. Or 2, customer dosnt pay if not within industry acceptable lippage... (this is what I have heard). Do you have to pull permits on every piece of tile installed?, and is there an inspector that inspects and approves the install?
Back to subject..
Here is the problem Jason, as a contractor, my concerns are your epoxy trapping water behind the tile. Or Any near waterproof “sealant” for that matter.
Whether it due to Florida shower construction, Florida hard water or other factors, cutting to remove perimeter caulk and having water flow out, and often 30 minutes latter it still flowing, tells me there is water in the wall cavity. This is why caulk mildews in first place. Now we’re going to replace the water proof silicone with your waterproof epoxy grout.
Do you not see the potential problems?
Impregnating sealers work well and have there place, however like you said, your not going to water proof the wall structure in a shower.
I find it kind of ignorant on your part to assume every shower is build like you build it.
What is your warranty on your product?
In response to Jason
- I am a contractor according the definition:
—a person or company that undertakes a contract to provide materials or labor to perform a service or do a job.
And I am liscenced to perform these services.
I don’t know about that website you posted.... I challenge their “verifying” as those phone numbers are pretty old, 1is dead other not been actively used by me in over 15 years.
And maybe you or some stone installers in Cali can answer this, as I am curious. On MTL stone floor installs, with a butt install, 1/16”spacing, maximum allows tile lippage is 1/32”. So 1. So every floor installed meets these specs and basically there never is a need for grind in place. Or 2, customer dosnt pay if not within industry acceptable lippage... (this is what I have heard). Do you have to pull permits on every piece of tile installed?, and is there an inspector that inspects and approves the install?
Back to subject..
Here is the problem Jason, as a contractor, my concerns are your epoxy trapping water behind the tile. Or Any near waterproof “sealant” for that matter.
Whether it due to Florida shower construction, Florida hard water or other factors, cutting to remove perimeter caulk and having water flow out, and often 30 minutes latter it still flowing, tells me there is water in the wall cavity. This is why caulk mildews in first place. Now we’re going to replace the water proof silicone with your waterproof epoxy grout.
Do you not see the potential problems?
Impregnating sealers work well and have there place, however like you said, your not going to water proof the wall structure in a shower.
I find it kind of ignorant on your part to assume every shower is build like you build it.
What is your warranty on your product?
Old Coastie
Supportive Member
I’m not feeling the love...
steve_64
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
- Messages
- 13,371
But I need to regrout my main bathroom floor so this has been educational.
Cameron DeMille
Member
1. This was introduced to me after I left the field full time. It was brought to my attention by Mike Holm (Caulkmaster) who is a longtime customer of mine. He is incredibly meticulous and detail oriented and so I trust him when he tells me a product works great. I contacted Jason and became a distributor approximately 10 months ago. My hands on experience with this product is limited to its application
2. I do have several customers that have outright replaced caulking and silicone with this and so far have had no issues.
3. The name of the owner/creator of ColorClad is Mike Skala. He passed away nearly two years ago and is no longer available to comment. I had many conversations with Mike about his product and other chemicals. He was an incredible wealth of knowledge and taught me many things. He was a true asset to the industry. With that being said, his opinion of grout being the best option around a shower floor perimeter only applies in certain regions
In CA, it is required by code with a new installation to use a flexible joint material, such as siliconized acrylic caulk, silicone, or a urethane material where the plane changes. So where the floor meets the curb riser, seat, wall, etc., you must, by code, use a flexible material. Being on one of the largest fault lines on the planet, I see why this is the code.
HOWEVER, just because something is a standard, or a code, doesn't necessarily mean it is the strongest or best option.
In my shower in my shop, the one that is used for training, was installed about 14 months ago. It cracked in the corners and around the floor after about 4-6 months. Non-sanded grout in the vertical joints, sanded grout around the floor perimeter. It was replaced with SGA and so far it has held up just fine. Obviously, this is a short amount of time to use as a gauge of durability and lifespan.
Some of you know my experience, some do not. While I am not a tile installation expert, by far, I have a lot of experience with all the steps, from concrete slab and studs to finished product and the restoration and repair of showers after the fact. So far, I have been impressed with SGA and I have no issues recommending it. Yes I am a distributor, but as most of you know, we offer a limited selection of each type of product so we only offer what I would consider the "best of the best."
SGA isn't for everyone. Some people will not agree with it's use, some people will love it and use it exclusively. Some people will use it sometimes. It doesn't matter, every product has fans and people that don't like it.
One of the HUGE benefits for me, is that it cures with a matte finish, like grout. It does not cure shiny like silicone or urethane. It is very strong. With a utility knife, you can cut out non-sanded grout. You cannot to the same with SGA mixed with the same non sanded grout.
Also, it cleans up with water. It's not as simple as wiping once or twice with a sponge, but the fact that it is water clean up is amazing.
One more thing, it doesn't alter the grout's color that much. It ends up a tad darker, but not so much that it's an issue.
If there is enough movement, SGA will crack, or possibly cause the stone tile to crack/break, but I would expect something like this to be a significant event, like an earthquake. I mean like 4.0+. We have earthquakes on a weekly basis here, 99% of them are not felt, but there is literally constant movement.
I am incredibly optimistic about this product and I think it will help a lot of people that install and service showers. If I was still in the field, with my limited experience with this product so far, I would have no issues offering a warranty
2. I do have several customers that have outright replaced caulking and silicone with this and so far have had no issues.
3. The name of the owner/creator of ColorClad is Mike Skala. He passed away nearly two years ago and is no longer available to comment. I had many conversations with Mike about his product and other chemicals. He was an incredible wealth of knowledge and taught me many things. He was a true asset to the industry. With that being said, his opinion of grout being the best option around a shower floor perimeter only applies in certain regions
In CA, it is required by code with a new installation to use a flexible joint material, such as siliconized acrylic caulk, silicone, or a urethane material where the plane changes. So where the floor meets the curb riser, seat, wall, etc., you must, by code, use a flexible material. Being on one of the largest fault lines on the planet, I see why this is the code.
HOWEVER, just because something is a standard, or a code, doesn't necessarily mean it is the strongest or best option.
In my shower in my shop, the one that is used for training, was installed about 14 months ago. It cracked in the corners and around the floor after about 4-6 months. Non-sanded grout in the vertical joints, sanded grout around the floor perimeter. It was replaced with SGA and so far it has held up just fine. Obviously, this is a short amount of time to use as a gauge of durability and lifespan.
Some of you know my experience, some do not. While I am not a tile installation expert, by far, I have a lot of experience with all the steps, from concrete slab and studs to finished product and the restoration and repair of showers after the fact. So far, I have been impressed with SGA and I have no issues recommending it. Yes I am a distributor, but as most of you know, we offer a limited selection of each type of product so we only offer what I would consider the "best of the best."
SGA isn't for everyone. Some people will not agree with it's use, some people will love it and use it exclusively. Some people will use it sometimes. It doesn't matter, every product has fans and people that don't like it.
One of the HUGE benefits for me, is that it cures with a matte finish, like grout. It does not cure shiny like silicone or urethane. It is very strong. With a utility knife, you can cut out non-sanded grout. You cannot to the same with SGA mixed with the same non sanded grout.
Also, it cleans up with water. It's not as simple as wiping once or twice with a sponge, but the fact that it is water clean up is amazing.
One more thing, it doesn't alter the grout's color that much. It ends up a tad darker, but not so much that it's an issue.
If there is enough movement, SGA will crack, or possibly cause the stone tile to crack/break, but I would expect something like this to be a significant event, like an earthquake. I mean like 4.0+. We have earthquakes on a weekly basis here, 99% of them are not felt, but there is literally constant movement.
I am incredibly optimistic about this product and I think it will help a lot of people that install and service showers. If I was still in the field, with my limited experience with this product so far, I would have no issues offering a warranty
Mikey P
Administrator
Cameron DeMille
Member
Most likely you would have to dremel or cut it out like a hard grout
mmarkovic
Member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2012
- Messages
- 58
Jason, your system sounds slick. But I think back on the response you gave on using the color swatch cards to match the desired color will be close but no cigar due to the fact that once a grout dries it typically lightens significantly. Due to the fact that your epoxy resin will have the effect of darkening the powdery grout to that wet stage, you would get if using water but in the case of your resin the color after curing will stay deeper while a water-cured cementitious grout would lighten after dried. Perhaps the shift is only more significant in darker colors and not so much on lighter ones. let me know your feedback on this. I'll be getting your product to see if I like it for stain proofing shower zones. I'm a proponent of color sealing grout but in wet zones, hydrostatic pressure can sluff off the bond due to laden residues that can't be removed.
Doug McClure
Member
Jason, I'm intrigued enough with Super Grout Additive that I've ordered already, to use in new walk-in shower floor tile install over KBRS Tile Basin (over mortar base on solid 3/4" subfloor). My question is, how do I apply SGA (mixed per your videos with Mapei unsanded grout) into gaps for pebble tile on floor, mainly because of the variable width of gaps, which can exceed 1/8"? Do I simply allow more cure time, or should I apply in multiple steps (deeper application first, allowing to cure between second app)? I'm just concerned that the extra thickness/width of material will have difficulty curing properly.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Mikey P
Administrator
Jason is no longer on the forum but responds quickly the phone calls
