4 years as of today.

Hack Attack

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Messages
5,620
Location
further south than you
Name
Dan
forget what the "gurus" say about wool and heat, unless you don't want repeat customers

moderate heat is fine on wool for the ones that dont really need prespray either, if wool is heavily soiled/trashed then higher heat is better than higher pH. And dont agitate wool unless its gonna be its last clean cos it will shed like crazy
 

Jim Pemberton

MB Exclusive.
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
12,366
Name
Jim Pemberton
Spoken by someone who cleans more wool than most of the rest of us I’m sure.

A lot of heat restrictions come from a lack of understanding of how much heat contacts the face yarns. Back in the dinosaur days the carpet mills were convincing cleaners to turn their truck mounts down to 150-180f (depending on the fiber producer) on stain resistant nylon. Little did they understand that their fibers weren’t getting within 80 f of the gauge temperature.

Other than handmade rugs, moderate heat on wool carpet doesn’t create much if any risk at all.

Good post Dan
 

Doug Cox

Supportive Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
4,822
Location
Delavan, WI
Name
Doug Cox
Most carpet only need 170°. Wool need 150° or less. That what i learned.. that why i have hard time understanding why people need crank heat up so high for residential that doesn't need it.
You keep telling yourself that.
 
Joined
Jun 20, 2016
Messages
6,393
Location
Bc
Name
Jeff T
forget what the "gurus" say about wool and heat, unless you don't want repeat customers

moderate heat is fine on wool for the ones that dont really need prespray either, if wool is heavily soiled/trashed then higher heat is better than higher pH. And dont agitate wool unless its gonna be its last clean cos it will shed like crazy
But wool hides soiling.
When I run into a dirty WW wool, no matter of chems and heat wont touch..
Agitation is king... yes, it fuzzes our like crazy, BUT, it’s clean after a CRB, or ORECK scrub after chems...
I kinda hate cleaning wool.... it’s easy when new, but quickly degrades after some abuse....
 

Cleanworks

Moderator
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
27,455
Location
New Westminster,BC
Name
Ron Marriott
I for one wouldn't want either. I just used a legend GT and it was weak compared to my 570. I was glad to have my van back. Then again, if I was just starting out, I guess it would be ok.
You can't compare it to a 570. Not the same class of machine. I have a buddy with a legend, 23 hp motor and 4ml blower. Lots of power even at 200 feet. For residential and light commercial, it's really all you need. All carpet cleaners want more power and heat but it comes with a cost.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mikey P

Hack Attack

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Messages
5,620
Location
further south than you
Name
Dan
But wool hides soiling.
When I run into a dirty WW wool, no matter of chems and heat wont touch..
Agitation is king... yes, it fuzzes our like crazy, BUT, it’s clean after a CRB, or ORECK scrub after chems...
I kinda hate cleaning wool.... it’s easy when new, but quickly degrades after some abuse....
I've posted these pics somewhere else here.

Its wool and its older than the 17yr old incontinent poodle that lives on it.
Masterblend soil lifter with an extra scoop in HF reasonably heavy prespray with a genuine 15mins soak while I browsed MB.

Long trigger strokes to get more heat out and onto the carpet..
20190925_112540.jpg20190925_110147.jpg
and no agitation.. your dry strokes (if you have a window) will let you know if more rinsing is required
 

DAT

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
6,486
Location
Nevada
Name
Bill Cheryl
Actually, wool should not exceed 130, 140....
And residential, ATM, If you’re running 220-240, you are only getting 170-200 ATW.... that means you are cleaning properly....
But, believe what you want...
Heat equals CLEANER, for the same amount of work....
I was talking about at the wand to carpets. When carpet get flushed with 170 degrees, im just saying that it's plenty hot.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom