Getting started with a portable.

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Marcus
Oh snap! Um, if you check the rosters you can find all kinds of Canadians, in fact a clear majority of the NHL is Canadian born. We just rent out our surplus to American based teams. I just checked out the Dallas Stars roster- 14 Canadians and owned by Tom Gaglardi- you guessed it. Another Canadian.
Try again Skywalker.
Maybe that's why all the high rises are in dallas cause the Canadians built them....
 

Goomer

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Someone wants me to bid 400 apartments tomorrow that get cleaned in a 2 week period in august every year. It's all high rise.
I'm considering placing a bid then buying a portable and another brush pro. I could pay for it all with en that 2 weeks of death

If you land that gig, you may want to consider a jiggler and absorbent pads for higher production on the lighter soiled areas, as well as trying to get away with using a emulsifying extraction detergent on lighter soiled areas.

A separate battery sprayer will also help by allowing a helper to spray ahead.

Keeping up with a rate of 30 units per day is no small task and would warrant enough Minions to keep 2 tools going continuously with very little down time.

Good luck if you do land it.
 

Goomer

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The negative connotation put on Frank's Bucket Brigade system (by rotovac) vs Willy's Spaggetti Monster system. Both definitely have their positives and negatives.

There are several ADVANCED porty hack techniques that can greatly reduce the reliance on what many Plebeians tend to term as the "Bucket Brigade", when NOT running AF-APO.

Only when one can release themselves of their inner mumblings and frustrations regarding using a portable and accept their equipment for what it is, especially when void of other options, can they redirect their resources towards finding simple, logical solutions to counter some of the obvious limitations of portable units.

Necessity breeds ingenuity.
 

Desk Jockey

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Is this where you try to convince us a blow up doll is just as good as the real thing?

Sorry Frank I waz holding that one for William but you posted first. :biggrin:

It's ok, carry on. Tell us how great a porty is, please due tell. :lol:
 
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Cleanworks

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There are several ADVANCED porty hack techniques that can greatly reduce the reliance on what many Plebeians tend to term as the "Bucket Brigade", when NOT running AF-APO.

Only when one can release themselves of their inner mumblings and frustrations regarding using a portable and accept their equipment for what it is, especially when void of other options, can they redirect their resources towards finding simple, logical solutions to counter some of the obvious limitations of portable units.

Necessity breeds ingenuity.
A portable philosopher. Now that's cool. Release all those inner inhibitions and attain nirvana while clean those filthy carpets.
 
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rick imby

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When Willy is doing the walk through with the customer he is scouting out the Machine location and plug in locations =3 or 4 and what to hook the hot water feed to.

When Frank is doing the walk through he is scouting out location number one, and two for the machine and where to fill his buckets, Where his permanent cord will be plugged and where his mobile plug will go.

With as much experience as these two have they probably plan the layout subconsciously, kinda like driving a clutch car and never thinking about the clutch or gear you are in.

The whole focus of these two systems is different.

Thanks for the insight guys...
 

kevinj6121

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I have always been a fan of the "stick-n-move" philosophy in regards to porty operation.

I have become pretty good at surveying a layout, and determining a basic game-plan in regards to how I am going to cover the most ground in the most efficiently way, while minimizing the number of times I will have to reposition my machine.

Seldom do I have to reposition more than once in most apartments, and rarely more than a couple of times in most average homes.

I like to zero in on the optimal first staging position of the unit, where I able to bite off the largest amount of area which includes the furthest areas from "home" (usually being the bathroom or other water source), and work my way back.

As far as I am concerned, nothing kills your mobility like being tethered to a water source and a drain, and having to layout and manage generally longer hose-runs, and having to manage more than 2 cords, and deal with the additional time and potential problems that may arise from the need to provide additional, at times "elusive" separate circuits.

All this extra work and over-complication for such a small amount of addition heat, at generally lower flow.

Assuming your higher amp cord is ran to a bathroom or kitchen outlet using a 50Ft cord, which should be standard procedure for any porty hack, repositioning is as simple as unplugging your secondary, shorter, lower amp plug which is usually in close proximity, moving your hoses and machine, and plugging the second cord in, again, in any outlet in close proximity.

It's not rocket surgery.

Set up is a breeze, repositioning is a breeze, and breakdown is a breeze, and your not stumbling over spaghetti the whole time.

The only other tool to manage is my Oreck, which is just as easy as using a vacuum, and is easy employ as needed, and to be kept out of the way when not being used.

I think most would agree that although employing BOTH a higher heat set-up AND mechanical agitation when using a portable unit is obviously an ideal, but it is not something most portable users would find to be very efficient on a daily basis, therefore it comes down to having to choose between the two.

As I have always preached, for reasons that are to me very obvious, I choose the simpler, less problematic, mobile set-up, with a strong emphasis on the nuke-dwell-scrub trinity, as opposed to an overcomplicated, time consuming, tethered set-up, while under the delusion that an additional 40 degree's, at best, is going to be more effective than the combination of the right chemistry, and the forces of FRICTION.

One needs to look no further for clear evidence of the effectiveness of the combination of chemistry and the friction of agitation alone, then in the use of any of the popular low moisture techniques, whether a Cimex, jiggler, or other rotary machine, which Ofer no heat whatsoever.

I'm with you frank....Nuke-dwell-scrub i'll either use my 175 w/carpet brush or my 15inch CRB, I think an oreck orbiter is in my very near future though, I know you use one so i'll take your advise on which brush is best overall to use, Is it the black one? I have an oreck store about a 45min drive from me, came so close to just going and getting a new one a few times, which model would you recommend? I would think any of them would be fine as long as it had the 50ft cord. Also would be curious to know what you use as your main
"Nuke it" Chem. I have a Mytee M5 and just bought the LTD5 currently using an aw29 wand but am going to purchase a west pac 0530 wand soon, I also use 2inch hose all the way to the wand, most jobs 50ft or less hose needed sometimes I add an extra 20foot section if needed or just tempory move the machine.
 
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I prefer not to nuke the carpet when using a portable..... The whole thing about not getting everything you put down out is something that I think about... I prefer HEAT over Nuking it... I also have a 35' section of 2" hose that I run as my main hose for portable work... I carry a total of 50' of 2" hose though... I rarely ever move the machine once I set it up... I prefer auto fill and dump every room to 2 rooms... I also use a RV360i... So I rely on the Heat and scrubbing action of the RE to get the carpets clean...

If there's a hose bib close to where I unload, I will fill the machine before going up to the unit (depending if I'm using propane heat or electric heat).

I am one not to leave or roll the machine on clean carpet... So if I set it up in the kitchen and have to carry the machine over 20' of living room carpet to the door, that's what I do... One of the exhaust of the vacuums on my machine points down towards the floor and I wouldn't want it to leave a dirty mark if I happen to foam over or have blowby....
 

kevinj6121

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I prefer to leave my portable (Mytee LTD5) outside the front door so as to keep the noise level inside the house down, most of the time a 50ft 2inch hose does the trick, i do carry extra hose for those times i need a little extra, in the event a leak or something happens it happens outside instead of in the customers home
 

Cleanworks

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I agree with Nate, the idea of "nuking" the carpet with overly aggressive chemistry is something someone unfamiliar with portable cleaning will do. With our new, modern, powerful portables that use heat combined with the same type agitation that you would use with a tm, we clean carpets exactly as you would with a tm. Pre vac, pre spray, agitate and extract. No, it's not quite as powerful as a tm but not that far off. I have several buildings that have trashed out carpets every end of the month and even though I could use the tm in some cases, we choose to use the portable as it is easier and faster than doing a long setup with the tm. I use Procyon extreme with a booster (both environmentally friendly) rinse with Procyon plus powder and these trashed out carpets clean up beautiful. Now that I have my 10 in brush pro, I'll be using that as my agitator.
 

kevinj6121

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I'm always trying some new chem, can't help it, it's an addiction, i've got so many both encap and HWE. Would rather not use this for that and that one for this, would like to narrow it down to just maybe a couple but they all would need to be able to clean even the nastiest of carpets. So yeah i like to have some good Nuke it type chems but just mix according to condition of carpet, don't always have to "nuke it" I always agitate. with either my 17inch 175 or 15inch CRB just depends on the carpet type.
 

Willy P

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Pics from today. Did a job yesterday with no heat. Bleck!
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Willy P

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1 - the stove outlet- dedicated 15 amp, the other cord was the counter plug.
2 - placing the heater in front of the machine clear of the work area. I pull excess cord out of the way.
3- heater plugged in the bathroom outlet and the other to the hall.
4 - filler hose. Still gotta hump the waste buckets. My glass is half full.
5- 200 degrees+. Makes mincemeat out of dirty tenants,
easy! :biggrin:
 
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Cleanworks

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just did a job today, could have used the truck mount but it was raining, the yard was full of mud. 150' to the hose bib. suite is on the 3rd floor which means I have to carry my vac/sol hose up to the suite, then drop them down into the mud. going to end up soaked and muddy. Instead, I parked in the nice dry underground parking lot, right next to the elevator. Loaded everything I need into and on top of the machine and up I went. 1-bedroom suite, not heavily soiled, used my inline heater with my 500 psi portable and was done in 45 minutes and back on my way. $150.00 and everyone is happy.
 
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