Red Wine and Cotton

[SamIam]

3% peroxide 10% volume, 12 percent =40 volume,

Cobbs is 15 % and is 50 volume.


Cti usr is 12% or 40
Volume.

I think Bristor sells a 20% white knight but you really want to be carful going to strong.

I cut Cobbs in half on pet stains

 

[steve_64]

Do you know when to use a reducer instead of an oxidizing product? How each works?

I haven't taken a class in ten years, I've forgot a lot. Because I've done so many rentals I got in the habit of just using stain magic on everything first, I know that's wrong but I usually don't know what I'm dealing with neither.

So to answer your question, no. But I usually get lucky.

 

[Larry Cobb]

The white spots are my last attempt to remove a different stain. It was a red40 stain. How should I approach this new dilemma without weakening the color any more?

Since the 40 vol. turned the red stains white, I would definitely try a reducing agent.

We would use DC FiberBrite powder first on uphol, since it is milder.

If that doesn't work, then a stronger reducing agent like ReduceAll is required.

http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index...search_in_description=1&keyword=DCFBR+or+DCRA

 

[icleancarpetz]

Saiger" data-source="post: 4508597" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">

And the price of admission to this place is free!

You won't get advice like this everyday in many other places!

Thanks for sharing here!

Got that right!

 

[jcooper]

look at the white spots on the chair. That's from me using volume 40 last time I cleaned it.

40 vol or any strong peroxide, can also weaken the fabric. Especially if left on(not rinsed).

 

[Jimmy L]

I am dazed and confused my head hurts

 

[Papa John]

I haven't taken a class in ten years, I've forgot a lot. Because I've done so many rentals I got in the habit of just using stain magic on everything first, I know that's wrong but I usually don't know what I'm dealing with neither.

So to answer your question, no. But I usually get lucky.

You got it right.
Always use stain magic or stain 1 first
If ypu need to choose between oxidizer or reducer. After several complete flush rinses-- then go to reducer - Red 1 or red relief if needed.-- we rearly have to use these two.
Using reducer 1st will reduce the results of oxidizer.

 

[BIG WOOD]

I've got some chemspec coffee stain remover that I'll start off with. What do you guys recommend on the dilution of it?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Label directions as a starting point.

Inconspicuous place (if there still is one) as a matter of best practice. Start little to determine MO.

 

[Cleanworks]

I've got some chemspec coffee stain remover that I'll start off with. What do you guys recommend on the dilution of it?

Use undiluted. Maybe add 1 oz of neutral cleaner to a 32 oz spray bottle.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

I wouldn't mix up a full at first...

 

[icleancarpetz]

I've got some chemspec coffee stain remover that I'll start off with. What do you guys recommend on the dilution of it?

That stuff will make the house stink. Old technology if it's the same formula

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Still the most effective, but it WILL stink in large volumes.

 

[icleancarpetz]

Yeah used it the other week. Had an unopened container bought years ago. Decided to use it. Works well but will offend the homeowner. Used a little in spray bottle.
Not again.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Hopefully it is not as offensive as a gaudy stain.

 

[J. Brightwell]

I've always had good luck with Stain Magic for Wool and normally will cover with plastic. Also a clothes steamer for particularly stubborn stains.

 

[BIG WOOD]

I've always had good luck with Stain Magic for Wool and normally will cover with plastic. Also a clothes steamer for particularly stubborn stains.

Stain magic for wool is just the normal stain magic diluted down 50%...??? Am I correct on that?

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Stain magic for wool is just the normal stain magic diluted down 50%...??? Am I correct on that?

No

 

[J. Brightwell]

Stain magic for wool is just the normal stain magic diluted down 50%...??? Am I correct on that?

It's a two part system. Part A is an oxidizer and Part B is a reducer. (I believe. CTI chick?) It also comes with a neutralizer which I never use and which I would rather not be included. If you go with this, try not to mix more than you will need. Once mixed, anything not used is waste.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Oh boy...

 

[J Scott W]

Stain magic for wool is just the normal stain magic diluted down 50%...??? Am I correct on that?

The "... for Wool" products include a neutralizer that can be used to either stop the action or can be applied to areas that you don't intend to treat as a protection.

 

[BIG WOOD]

I tried all I had on it.
1. Treated it with acid based
rinsed
2. Treated it with fine fabric respray
rinsed
3. Treated it with browning treatment
rinsed, and treated it again
4. Put it outside in the sun with 3% peroxide
Instructed the customer to apply it again after it dried

Yes, I let all my chemicals dwell, and I got it to lighten up about 50% lighter. The browning treatment showed the most difference.

I'll have some pictures to show after it dries fully

 

[J Scott W]

Patience is often a necessary ingredient to stain removal. Maybe try the 3% peroxide again. Might also try the browning treatment again, although you did not specify what type of browning treatment it was (some are oxidizers, some are reducers, some are acids). Small steps with products that are not too aggressive but repeat as long as you are making progress.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Patience is often a necessary ingredient to stain removal. Maybe try the 3% peroxide again. Might also try the browning treatment again, although you did not specify what type of browning treatment it was (some are oxidizers, some are reducers, some are acids). Small steps with products that are not too aggressive but repeat as long as you are making progress.

It was Chemspec's liquid browning treatment. It's all I had with me. I told the customer to re-apply the 3% after it dries and if it keep getting lighter to spray again as needed.

 

[BIG WOOD]

This is the latest picture of Before/After

 

[J. Brightwell]

Correction to my description of Stain Magic for Wool. Part B is a catalyst, not a reducer, that makes the two components work together more effectively.

From CTI: Part A is an oxidizer and Part B is the catalyst. When you mix them together it creates a reaction that is stronger than either of them separately. But this comes at a cost. Once mixed the combined solution will retain full strength for only a short time (30 minutes or so) after that it starts to decline. Which is why Stain Magic for Wool directs you to use shorter dwell times with repeated applications if necessary.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Correction to my description of Stain Magic for Wool. Part B is a catalyst, not a reducer, that makes the two components work together more effectively.

From CTI: Part A is an oxidizer and Part B is the catalyst. When you mix them together it creates a reaction that is stronger than either of them separately. But this comes at a cost. Once mixed the combined solution will retain full strength for only a short time (30 minutes or so) after that it starts to decline. Which is why Stain Magic for Wool directs you to use shorter dwell times with repeated applications if necessary.

Thanks

 

[Cleanworks]

Looks much better Matt. You are at the point where as long as the reducer is rinsed out, you can apply a product like Stain Magic or Eliminate. The 2 parts are peroxide and ammonia. The ammonia boosts the action of the peroxide and it self neutralizes. Light spray over the affected area and it should lighten up.

 

[ruff]

Correction to my description of Stain Magic for Wool. Part B is a catalyst, not a reducer, that makes the two components work together more effectively.

From CTI: Part A is an oxidizer and Part B is the catalyst. When you mix them together it creates a reaction that is stronger than either of them separately. But this comes at a cost. Once mixed the combined solution will retain full strength for only a short time (30 minutes or so) after that it starts to decline. Which is why Stain Magic for Wool directs you to use shorter dwell times with repeated applications if necessary.

Usually Amonia is the catalyst for peroxide.
And an acid is the catalyst for reducers.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Accellerant