The Great Debate: Urine Removal Processes

[Mikey P]

I had to wash my eyes out with Ladwigcide after seeing those Nebraska legs in person

 

[hogjowl]

Mikey has been fixated on jimmys legs for 2 decades

 

[Luky]

Today I had a repeat client that has an old dog. I usually clean for them at least 2 times a year. They have poly carpet, beige in color. I always give them one of my pet spotters, but they ran out in-between cleanings and opted for some hardware store pet spotter and you can definitely tell where it was used because it was resoiling like crazy.

It was my only job on the books today so I thought I would do some testing.

The first thing I did was mix up some TOPS PadCap Pro at 2 ounces to 2.5 gal. and applied to all areas, CRB, then go over with a bonnet, and the results were noticeable, but minimal.

I then mixed up some Silver Solution at 5 ounces per gallon and added 1 packet of Obliterate (Chlorine Dioxide) I was hopeful for this because I know Silver Solution has a lower PH and I think acidic is ideal for urine. I then ran a new bonnet and went over everything. I believe the Chlorine Dioxide knocked down the yellowing, but it was still noticeable.

I then grabbed my T-Rex from the van with a brush head used 300 psi and high heat and went over all the areas. This made a considerable difference.

Lastly, I grabbed a couple more bonnets and went over everything using a high volume peroxide based product and I was very pleased with the results, and the carpet was almost dry.

I left one small area untouched and tried to go over it with a pad and the products that I used in the first steps and I really didn't have much luck getting it to look like the other areas. I switched between micro, micro with stripes, cotton, and cotton with green stripes.

I know a lot of people on here will say they won't do jobs like this, but this is a repeat client. They are aware of the situation. They love their pet and are willing to deal with this until the pet passes, and will replace at that time. I'm offering them a solution, they are educated on the situation, and find value in it.

This was around 800 sq ft and I charge .75 a sq ft.

I'm not ruling out the low moisture yet though. I do however think that HWE combined with post bonneting with a peroxide based product is a good combo.

I don't care what others say; you decide how to treat your customers, even if it takes an unprecedented amount of effort and different techniques to mitigate various situations. We're not magicians, and even though we're equipped with knowledge, the right equipment, and chemistry, it's not possible to eliminate the source. But you always try your best. For every ten
" regular" jobs, there might be one that drains you mentally and physically, but you still do it because, in the end, you earn someone's respect and become indispensable in their eyes. It's priceless to hear from the customer; "I'm impressed by your work."

 

[jeffexe]

Odor from decay in dog hair IS the bigger issue today.

For the curious, here are the factors that create this odor from dog hair and dander after you clean:

Sixteen compounds were found to be important odorants in dry dog hair coat vs.22 in wet dog hair coat. Water addition to dog hair and incubation causedsubstantial changes in the volatile compounds observed. Many compound groupsshowed increases upon water addition: strong sulfur, medicinal, or fecal smellingodors (dimethyl trisulfide, phenol, p-cresol), mushroom (1-octen-3-ol), fruity (2-nonanone), floral (â-damascenone), and earthy smelling (2,3-diethyl-5-methylpyrazine) odors, and branched or complex aldehydes (2, and 3-methylbutanal, isobutanal, 2E-octenal, acetaldehyde, benzaldehyde,phenylacetaldehyde, 2E-nonanal). Of those compounds measured,benzaldehyde, phenylaldehyde, acetaldehyde, phenol, and 2-methyl butanalshowed the largest increases with 32, 6, 5, 5 and 4 times the dry hair value,respectively. Concurrent with these increases, analytical results show decreasesin straight chain aldehydes upon water addition (hexanal, heptanal, and decanal).However, the changes in levels of octanal and nonanal were dog dependent.Isovaleric acid, hexanal, and heptanal showed the largest decreases upon wateraddition to the hair.

Compounds Responsible for the Odor of Dog Hair CoatWSAVA 2002 Congress*Linda Young, Phillipe Pollien, Deborah Roberts, Jill Cline*Nestle Purina PTCSt. Joseph, Missouri, USlinda.young@rdmo.nestle.com

Based upon my experience in dealing with this issue for .....well, since Jimmy Carter was in office.....I find that EPA registered sanitizers work best on the problem. For decades, phenols worked best, but are not as easily available, and those that are smell awful. Now I find "botanical" products, that contain thyme or thymol work best.

Removing as much dog hair as possible first is critical to success.

Oh...and forgive me HWE guys....but the less you wet it, the less it stinks.

Everyone else, carry on with your urine odor treatment experiences.

I have incorporated Benefect Decon 30 and Benefect Disinfectant into all my residential homes with dogs and even cats for several years. A thorough pre vacuum including edge cleaning followed by Benefect agitated with the CRB has been the best combination for me when it comes to odors. Oh and turn the pressure down to about 350 psi and slow down on dry strokes.

 

[Jimmy L]

But the real underlying reason is we hope our customers remember us as good people. And they all show up at our funeral.

 

[Mikey P]

I have incorporated Benefect Decon 30 and Benefect Disinfectant into all my residential homes with dogs and even cats for several years. A thorough pre vacuum including edge cleaning followed by Benefect agitated with the CRB has been the best combination for me when it comes to odors. Oh and turn the pressure down to about 350 psi and slow down on dry strokes.

Do you use your own vacuum to go over urine affected areas?


I see that Marty does, personally I have a real tough time with the moral obligation of not bringing those contaminants into the next home to be dispersed through the filter system that would blow those cooties all over the next people's belongings, and lungs

Not to mention my own lungs

 

[SamIam]

Odor from decay in dog hair IS the bigger issue today.

For the curious, here are the factors that create this odor from dog hair and dander after you clean:

Sixteen compounds were found to be important odorants in dry dog hair coat vs.22 in wet dog hair coat. Water addition to dog hair and incubation causedsubstantial changes in the volatile compounds observed. Many compound groupsshowed increases upon water addition: strong sulfur, medicinal, or fecal smellingodors (dimethyl trisulfide, phenol, p-cresol), mushroom (1-octen-3-ol), fruity (2-nonanone), floral (â-damascenone), and earthy smelling (2,3-diethyl-5-methylpyrazine) odors, and branched or complex aldehydes (2, and 3-methylbutanal, isobutanal, 2E-octenal, acetaldehyde, benzaldehyde,phenylacetaldehyde, 2E-nonanal). Of those compounds measured,benzaldehyde, phenylaldehyde, acetaldehyde, phenol, and 2-methyl butanalshowed the largest increases with 32, 6, 5, 5 and 4 times the dry hair value,respectively. Concurrent with these increases, analytical results show decreasesin straight chain aldehydes upon water addition (hexanal, heptanal, and decanal).However, the changes in levels of octanal and nonanal were dog dependent.Isovaleric acid, hexanal, and heptanal showed the largest decreases upon wateraddition to the hair.

Compounds Responsible for the Odor of Dog Hair CoatWSAVA 2002 Congress*Linda Young, Phillipe Pollien, Deborah Roberts, Jill Cline*Nestle Purina PTCSt. Joseph, Missouri, USlinda.young@rdmo.nestle.com

Based upon my experience in dealing with this issue for .....well, since Jimmy Carter was in office.....I find that EPA registered sanitizers work best on the problem. For decades, phenols worked best, but are not as easily available, and those that are smell awful. Now I find "botanical" products, that contain thyme or thymol work best.

Removing as much dog hair as possible first is critical to success.

Oh...and forgive me HWE guys....but the less you wet it, the less it stinks.

Everyone else, carry on with your urine odor treatment experiences.

Wernering works best.

Vacuum vacuum vacuum.


Then clean and sanitize with kill odor hd with a antimicrobial.

When ever I have had a dog dander rework, I go back and vacuum, sure enough I missed stuff.

 

[SamIam]

Do you use your own vacuum to go over urine affected areas?


I see that Marty does, personally I have a real tough time with the moral obligation of not bringing those contaminants into the next home to be dispersed through the filter system that would blow those cooties all over the next people's belongings, and lungs

Not to mention my own lungs

You've been cleaning how long and use UPE and are worried now?

The cross contamination is real, I'm sure every one wipes down everything after every job.


I don't use my vacuum on piss.

 

[Living The Dream]

Do you use your own vacuum to go over urine affected areas?


I see that Marty does, personally I have a real tough time with the moral obligation of not bringing those contaminants into the next home to be dispersed through the filter system that would blow those cooties all over the next people's belongings, and lungs

Not to mention my own lungs

That's what the Oreck is for. Vacuum everything, throw the bag, spray and clean the brush roller and base with Mediclean, install new bag, and it's ready for the next pet home.

 

[hogjowl]

It’s very easy to clean a vacuum head.
Almost as easy as surface cleaning with a pad machine.

 

[Trip Moses]

My urine removal process. I don’t have a device that measures urine so I don’t to crazy with the process.
1. Vacuum. A shark vacuum is very easy to clean. I can do it with the whip hose from my truck mount. It dries on the way to the next job.


2. Set truck mount to lowest psi and highest heat. Chemical feed on 3-4. Dry Slury HWE only. No expensive pre treatments that work only 50%of the time.
Rotovac in.


3. Wand out with same truck mount setting.
1 wet/4 dry (2 complete dry strokes front to back).

This job was a 3 bedroom only townhome. Took 1 hour 12 minutes from arrival to departure. I charged $215.

 

[Kenny Hayes]

You and Marty went to the same school, with different chems.

 

[Trip Moses]

You and Marty went to the same school, with different chems.

I rode the bus. He walked uphill both ways in the snow.

 

[Mikey P]

It’s very easy to clean a vacuum head.
Almost as easy as surface cleaning with a pad machine.

yeah, how about the fan chamber?

 

[Mikey P]

You've been cleaning how long and use UPE and are worried now?

Did a bit of research and UPE is the lung friendliest offering in the LB line up

 

[Trip Moses]

yeah, how about the fan chamber?

There are two washable filters before the fan and one washable filter on the fan’s exhaust. Other than that you are an OCD Moron. Or you are trying to prove your point at all cost

 

[jeffexe]

Do you use your own vacuum to go over urine affected areas?


I see that Marty does, personally I have a real tough time with the moral obligation of not bringing those contaminants into the next home to be dispersed through the filter system that would blow those cooties all over the next people's belongings, and lungs

Not to mention my own lungs

I keep a spare Shark on the truck specifically for Nasty type jobs. Sharks are easy to disassemble and clean and sanitize after these jobs. Or, cheap enough to replace if necessary. I would never cross contaminate Pet jobs with non pet jobs. I am very conscientious about health and well being. Almost to a point of obsession. Jim Pemberton can attest to that. He and I have had some interesting conversations about products and cleaning over the years. Perfection, health and well being and professionalism are priorities that will not be compromised in my business. Keep in mind, I do not clean excessive urine soaked loss cause pet jobs. After 35 years in business, I suggest replacement or walk away from the job. I do not need the aggravation and as Mike said the crap in my Truck or lungs.

 

[Cleanworks]

What is odor removal?

It’s to make it not smell!
Methodology directly relates to customer satisfaction
Doubling down buckets “enzymes”of water and trying to suck it out while handing them a massive bill leads to a lot customer duress air movers dehumidifiers, warped, sub floors. Sounds like a blast.

Or make it not stink, and make them happy and do the right thing

Ask yourself, can I truly get it out? Am I really doing the best thing for them and me?
Am I wasting time chasing up?

What is actual proper remediation? Is it truly cleaning both sides of the carpet replacing the pad after painting the subfloor
Maybe even replacing the carpet

What about the other surfaces in the home? Can’t they harbor orders as well

People often overlook what our clients are actually asking for they don’t want to stink put your ego aside

Carpet cleaning professor, or philosopher?

 

[Cleanworks]

So in my quest to find out the active ingredient in a " Cide" I sat in my recliner and went into a deep trance. I then reached out to the spirit of Shawn Forsyth and asked him about "Cides". He said that it's all just bullshit hiding the simple fact that all it is ...........is.........ALCOHOL.
And you can even fog hvac ducts with it because it's not toxic.
So all you stupit MOFOS that's it!

And he mentioned a certain Fred Boil, who he will haunt forever for treating him so badly when he was alive.

So, drink enough scotch and the smell will disappear.

 

[hogjowl]

yeah, how about the fan chamber?

Fan chamber doesn’t come in contact with my customers rugs
And don’t give me any lip about unhealthy air
If you were concerned about cleaning for health, you wouldn’t be pad cleaning
And your customers wouldn’t be breathing Encap particles

 

[LOV3Y]

FYI

View attachment 125282

Be careful mixing sodium chlorite (CLO2 products) with peroxide. The duo can cause nasty bleaching.

Also, sodium chlorite doesn’t actually convert to a mild CLO2 until it’s acidic and it doesn’t take much.

For urine deposits, I mix sodium chlorite with PCP and add a pinch of Prochem acid rinse to barely get the solution to the acidic side.

That solution annihilates urine.

The sellers of the so-called “stabilized CLO2” products don’t mention this because they don’t want people going too crazy on the acid side. The problem is those products are absolutely not CLO2 unless acidic.

You could also mix your CLO2 product with Silver Solution since SS is just acidic enough to convert the sodium chlorite to CLO2.

i appreciate you

 

[hogjowl]

i appreciate you

Give it some time

 

[Jimmy L]

And yet I never get credit for exposing the hazards of vacuuming over piss and my scientific research into the unhealthy airborne encap molecules on the post vac.

LISTEN TO ME IDIOTS!
I AM AN IDIOT SAVANT !

 

[hogjowl]

 

[Nomad74]

Did someone say urine?

 

[Mikey P]

Fan chamber doesn’t come in contact with my customers rugs
And don’t give me any lip about unhealthy air
If you were concerned about cleaning for health, you wouldn’t be pad cleaning
And your customers wouldn’t be breathing Encap particles

I forgot how mechanically insufficient you are.

I don't vacuum over pee for my health, the customers are already living in the sewer...

 

[hogjowl]

I would venture to say encap spray
is more harmful to you lungs than urine odor.

 

[Mikey P]

I would venture to say encap spray
is more harmful to you lungs than urine odor.

Keep on venture'in peeBoy

 

[Cleanworks]

And yet I never get credit for exposing the hazards of vacuuming over piss and my scientific research into the unhealthy airborne encap molecules on the post vac.

LISTEN TO ME IDIOTS!
I AM AN IDIOT SAVANT !

About half right.

 

[Mikey P]