used water box
- Thread starter Jamesh921
- Start date
Jamesh921
Member
It won't open now @ 10.5
Please explain
Please explain
If the previous owner didn't lube it probably with wd40, it might have a film of grease over the blower's internal parts, which won't provide the suction needed.
But that's after you check the relief valve.
To lube it properly with wd40, you need to leave your vac ports blocked off for 20seconds at full rpm to heat up the blower and blow out the wd40. A lot of guys shut it down right after they spray it, which causes that film of grease over the guts of the blower, and will cause less suction
But that's after you check the relief valve.
To lube it properly with wd40, you need to leave your vac ports blocked off for 20seconds at full rpm to heat up the blower and blow out the wd40. A lot of guys shut it down right after they spray it, which causes that film of grease over the guts of the blower, and will cause less suction
You are loosing vacuum at the relief valve.. Factory setting is 13 I believe. With a glide you will probably be around 13 , but you won't be leaking air early setting it at 14 or 15..
I think the RPM'S might be your big problem, belts could be too.
I think the RPM'S might be your big problem, belts could be too.
Jamesh921
Member
I'm not following. If the vac relief valve won't open @ 10.5, how would setting it @ 14 or 15 help? If I set it to open @ a higher level, won't it take more vac power to open it? Or do I just not understand how a relief valve works properly?
Your blower is fine and wd40 is the biggest killer of blowers.. I haven't replaced a blower yet and I've been at it for 12 years. I lube very seldom..
Side note: When you spray wd40 in there it's not to "lube" the blower it's to displace moisture.. The blower is hot, and moisture evaporates through the exhaust as long as you don't suck water regularly, there is no need.. I will use it if I have a unit sitting for a while though..
Side note: When you spray wd40 in there it's not to "lube" the blower it's to displace moisture.. The blower is hot, and moisture evaporates through the exhaust as long as you don't suck water regularly, there is no need.. I will use it if I have a unit sitting for a while though..
That's just it, it is opening at 10.5. That's why it isn't getting any higher. If you tighten it, it will go higher until you reach the dsired number of 13-14. So if you have your engine's rpm's set at what you need, and your belts are tight and fresh, start playing with that valve, and tighten it at quarter turns each
Jamesh921
Member
Matt, reread my post. The vac relief valve is NOT opening - AT ALL. This unit is not generating enough power/vac to open it.
My next plan of action is to check the belts. Then take it to a Kubota dealer and have them check/adjust the RPMs. If that doesn't fix the issues, I'll go to Prochem and ask for their input and have one of their dealers check it out. Or heck, maybe I'll just take it to a Prochem Dealer now. Yep, maybe I'll just do that and skip all the guessing.
My next plan of action is to check the belts. Then take it to a Kubota dealer and have them check/adjust the RPMs. If that doesn't fix the issues, I'll go to Prochem and ask for their input and have one of their dealers check it out. Or heck, maybe I'll just take it to a Prochem Dealer now. Yep, maybe I'll just do that and skip all the guessing.
SamIam
Member
I would take it into a dealer
Ok, sorry for misreading that. Did you say that you tried to tighten or replace the belts already also?
Can you take a good picture of your relief valve? And I want you to physically push the valve in and out to make sure the springs are working good. I can't remember where it is on the Apex
Because I know you said that it's not opening. But I think it's constantly open. The reason being...when you covered the vac port, the rpm didn't drop dramatically. If that relief valve didn't open, your engine would bog down a lot lower than what we heard
Because I know you said that it's not opening. But I think it's constantly open. The reason being...when you covered the vac port, the rpm didn't drop dramatically. If that relief valve didn't open, your engine would bog down a lot lower than what we heard
On the Prochem Apex user manual, it has a breakdown of the relief valve. If the diaphragm is bad on the valve, it will constantly leak. Over time, WD40 will break down and weaken that diaphragm, or rubber disk, and you'll never be able to increase your suction. My prochem legend had the same type of relief valve and my diaphragm went bad.
http://www.jondon.com/media/pdf/manuals/PC-TMAPEX-EA.pdf
5
86179590
43-807106
1
DIAPH, VAC REL VLV
http://www.jondon.com/media/pdf/manuals/PC-TMAPEX-EA.pdf
5
86179590
43-807106
1
DIAPH, VAC REL VLV
dgardner
Moderator
You guys that need to check RPM - here's a cheap solution. You can get a non-contact photo tachometer off eBay for literally $10-15 bucks. It comes with sticky reflective tape, you just snip a little piece and stick on the pulley or shaft. I happen to have a vfd and 3-phase motor set up on my bench so I shot a short video this morning, since I know Marty likes them. Search eBay for DT-2234C.....
Jamesh921
Member
I spent the day with my kid today so I didn't get to work on the Apex. However, I just now went outside, started the engine, blocked the vac ports and checked the vac relief valve. It is not opening. I physically pushed the valve stem to force it open and it is working fine.
Jamesh921
Member
I'm going by the Kubota Dealership tomorrow to have the RPMs checked
Jamesh921
Member
I replaced the gasket on the tank a couple weeks ago.
SamIam
Member
If its sealed at the tank and your blocking off both vacuum ports, the lift will go as high as your hg are set on the relief unless there's a leak somewhere. I would take some plastic furniture chips and see if they hold on the relief or feel to see if there's any loss there.
Then start checking all hoses from blower to tank and tank to machine.
It only takes a little crack to lose major suction.
If I were to half idle my machine and seal it up I would still get my lift to go up and open the relief.
Then start checking all hoses from blower to tank and tank to machine.
It only takes a little crack to lose major suction.
If I were to half idle my machine and seal it up I would still get my lift to go up and open the relief.
SamIam
Member
Jamesh921
Member
Hey Sam. Thanks for the link to AGPtek®. I think I'll buy one just so I can test the RPMs in the future to make sure this TM is staying consistent. But, I sure think it is a shortcoming on Prochem's part to NOT make a tachometer a standard feature on their machines. A tach would have made diagnosing this issue SO much easier.
Good point!
Does the governor move when you put it under load? Seems to be running good and doesn't bog down.. How many hours are on it?
Jamesh921
Member
Haven't checked the governor. The hour meter read 851 when I bought it a month ago. I expected this machine to be in "like new" condition. Very disappointed.
The RPM'S are probably low, so that should be adjusted.. Governor should be fine, easy test though.. Put a load on, and look at this to make sure it's moving..
If your not hitting 13hg, or even 10 there has to be a leak somewhere.. I can't imagine how someone could mess up a blower with those low hours.
If your not hitting 13hg, or even 10 there has to be a leak somewhere.. I can't imagine how someone could mess up a blower with those low hours.
Jamesh921
Member
Worked long hours all week on an installation so I didn't get a chance to work on the machine. However, I did call the Kubota dealership and asked if they could set the RPMs on my machine. They told me I could buy a tach at the auto parts store and set it myself. OK, well if you don't want my business I'll go buy one and do it myself.
The Auto parts store didn't know squat about Kubota and didn't even have the ability to look up which tach I needed so they sold me a generic one. Brough it home and opened the instructions, "This tach is used for 4,6 & 8 cylinder engines only" (My Kubota is a 3 cyl).
So, I got to thinking about that governor and the vac relief valve and the RPMs and thought, "I'll manually ramp up the RPMs using the governor and see what happens." Started the machine, set throttle to full, blocked off the vac ports and pushed the governor to full open. The vac relief valve barely started to crack open. But, the Hg DID go up to 14.
So, should I go ahead and have the dealership set the RPMs and then start adjusting the vac relief valve?
The Auto parts store didn't know squat about Kubota and didn't even have the ability to look up which tach I needed so they sold me a generic one. Brough it home and opened the instructions, "This tach is used for 4,6 & 8 cylinder engines only" (My Kubota is a 3 cyl).
So, I got to thinking about that governor and the vac relief valve and the RPMs and thought, "I'll manually ramp up the RPMs using the governor and see what happens." Started the machine, set throttle to full, blocked off the vac ports and pushed the governor to full open. The vac relief valve barely started to crack open. But, the Hg DID go up to 14.
So, should I go ahead and have the dealership set the RPMs and then start adjusting the vac relief valve?
SamIam
Member
Yes
SamIam
Member
Check your belts too
Jamesh921
Member
Yes the governor is adjusting properly.
Here's my question... this machine was obviously frozen. Would that in any way affect the blower? If so, how?
Here's my question... this machine was obviously frozen. Would that in any way affect the blower? If so, how?
