BlueLine Thermalwave2 summer/fall project

[BIG WOOD]

I’m taking it to the forklift later this week to move it. Rubber mats underneath are getting pulled up.

The waste tank was behind it but I think I’m gonna move it to the left side of the machine for better mounting space and ease of access to the rear and right side of the machine.

The van needs a power steering fluid reservoir, a tuneup, and a new rear door

As for the tm, the water pump needs tlc, and the 185f thermal relief valve needs replaced. . Once I get it completed, we’ll see what other issues it might have

 

[Dolly Llama]

Matt, BigLectro killt the guy that invented your envisioned perpetual lectro gen.
They buried him and the plans in the same grave BigOil used to bury the guy with the carburetor that makes cars run on sea water

..L.T.A.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Matt, when an alternator spins it isn't just spinning creating free energy. As it spins when there is a load or demand placed on it, the magnetic field creates resistance it must overcome. This takes more power, like from a gas powered engine it's connected too. That is why sometimes you will hear your alternator belt squeal on your TM or car when you first start it. The alt has a load on it immediately as it tried to bring the battery back to full. All that is happening is it's converting your Gas power inte electric power so it can run your electronics, charge your battery, and create spark.

Ok, lets say you put a big windmill on your electric car. The windmill is hooked to an alternator which in turn charges your electric car battery. The resistance crated by the forward moving windmill and the usage of the electric car motors would be greater than the amount of energy needed to power the car. Really the only way to benefit is to park the car on a windy day and let the wind charge the batteries. But then again, is it really free energy? The free wind is still a form of energy that has been converted into stored electric. If the government could find a way to tax the wind, I'm sure they would, but I'm getting off track now.

Ok FK alternators! I'm done arguing. I'm trying to make the point that today's technology should be free energy...

Example. I just typed solar car and this website was the first to pull up. I didn't look for any others.
/

Aptera Motors

Aptera is the world’s first Solar Electric Vehicle that requires no charging for most daily use - giving you the freedom to do more with less impact on the planet.

aptera.us

For some reason, a line was pasted, not the website

If you don't think that today's tech can't recharge itself with solar, wind or friction, you're still living in the FKing 50's

 

[Nomad74]

Ok FK alternators! I'm done arguing. I'm trying to make the point that today's technology should be free energy...

Example. I just typed solar car and this website was the first to pull up. I didn't look for any others.
/

For some reason, a line was pasted, not the website

If you don't think that today's tech can't recharge itself with solar, wind or friction, you're still living in the FKing 50's

Matt? Did you even read that website? the car gives you 40 miles per day. What a joke. I'll stick with my e bike.

There is no Zero Point Energy. Just more efficient ways of converting it.

 

[FredC]

Ok FK alternators! I'm done arguing. I'm trying to make the point that today's technology should be free energy...

Example. I just typed solar car and this website was the first to pull up. I didn't look for any others.
/

For some reason, a line was pasted, not the website

If you don't think that today's tech can't recharge itself with solar, wind or friction, you're still living in the FKing 50's

Friction drains energy unless you are somehow capturing the heat but then you are still doing so at a loss.

Wind and solar are powering cars. Solar even with panels on the cars themselves but the limited surface area and efficiency of cells severely limits the range of any car you would want to drive. You would need a lot of sun for a long time on your car to charge the batteries completely. You can only hope to add 50 miles or so with todays solar tech.

So the better way is solar and wind farms that are able to do it on a large scale (or on your home roof) so that you can quickly charge your batteries.

 

[hogjowl]

I like the fact that Matt is done arguing
Cuz I couldn’t believe you guys were arguing with him in the first place!
Sortve like joking with a Canadian.

 

[Dolly Llama]

Ok FK alternators! I'm done arguing.

invest in nuclear fission cars, Woody !!

..L.T.A.

 

[FredC]

Matt? Did you even read that website? the car gives you 40 miles per day. What a joke. I'll stick with my e bike.

most folks don't drive that far daily.....and that just tops off the batteries. They have 250-1k mile battery packs so if you only drive 30 miles a day you don't have to plug it in if you get decent sun.

your kids will have to walk....


also that is a "motorcycle".....only 3 wheels to increase efficiency......and likely to avoid some safety regs

 

[Cleanworks]

I like the fact that Matt is done arguing
Cuz I couldn’t believe you guys were arguing with him in the first place!
Sortve like joking with a Canadian.

Canadians always get the last laugh.

 

[Nate The Great]

Here you go Matty boy..

 

[Hack Attack]

dont worry @BIG WOOD ...

some Fred's understand!

Redirect Notice

 

[FredC]

dont worry @BIG WOOD ...

some Fred's understand!

Redirect Notice

no free energy






edit: worth noting I guess is that brontosaurus steak is really just inefficient solar energy storage..that we in turn very inefficiently use to power ourselves.... ..although it is much more nutrient dense than sunlight

 

[BIG WOOD]

Runs great after relocating the ecu

 

[Mike J]

Runs great after relocating the ecu

View attachment 119012 View attachment 119013

Sounds Perfect.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Canadians always get the last laugh.

Canadians always get the laugh last

 

[BIG WOOD]

i have the same machine been using for years . i have not been over all your posts but here are the part numbers for some stuff you will most likely need for the GM vortec 1.6L
1. timing belt, water pump and tensioner gates KP15310XS (if you go to PSI or other routes these will cost a fortune.
https://www.gatesautocat.com/article/KP15310XS
bought mine at with 3 days shipping $92 https://spareto.com/products/dayco-water-pump-and-timing-belt-set/ktbwp2210
if you need belt asap oreillys Gates T203 111 tooth
2. coil oreillys 23-0228 $81 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2ae86/import-direct-ignition-coil/odi1/230228

3. wire set oreillys 9666 $34.99 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/omnispark/omnispark-spark-plug-wire-set/oms0/9666?q=9666&pos=0

most of the other parts you can use the part numbers on the stuff and find it.

i also moved my chem pump to the front of the machine to better access the diaphragm.

View attachment 117303

Does anyone have a way I can get the correct fuel pump at an auto parts store? I think this pump is bad. It's only putting out 40psi and the spark plugs are burning lean. I think it needs 55-60psi

 

[Nomad74]

Does anyone have a way I can get the correct fuel pump at an auto parts store?

Yes, Give them the correct part number.

 

[BIG WOOD]

I found a fuel pump to work, installed it and can't get more than 35psi. I need 55-60

I swapped out the sensor in front of the pump (maybe MAP sensor) that's on the manifold assembly, and even swapped out the manifold assembly too from my parts machine and still no better

where else is the problem?

 

[Nate The Great]

I found a fuel pump to work, installed it and can't get more than 35psi. I need 55-60

I swapped out the sensor in front of the pump (maybe MAP sensor) that's on the manifold assembly, and even swapped out the manifold assembly too from my parts machine and still no better

where else is the problem?

Run two pumps inline, it'll boost your pressure..........


Is there a return line? I'd say ball valve it and put restriction on it to make more head pressure if your pump is rated for higher psi.. And don't put a second pump inline, I accept no responsibility for anything.......

 

[BIG WOOD]

Update:

I was under my thermal wave all day yesterday, replacing everything in the fuel system. (fuel pump, filter, and all fuel lines, and vacuum hose line on valve cover) The previous owner used transmission fuel lines, and a no name, incorrect pressure fuel pump, and caused it to almost catch on fire with it burning lean, causing my entire exhaust system to glow. After several fuel pressure tests (the fuel pressure gauge from Harbour Freight crapping on me) and finding the vacuum leak as well, I think it's finally ready. I"ll find out tomorrow how well it runs. $250 worth of money spent

I thought I had the overheated exhaust pipes dilemma fixed, but now I know it's fixed


I just pulled the van out of the shop prior to this problem. (rear engine seal, power steering guts, timing gear box, exhaust pipe doughnut). Another $2100 burned in the wallet

Correction: I went and did a job and the damn exhaust manifolds started glowing again. Did another pressure test and it only reads 35psi after fuel manifold. It puts out 65 at the pump. There’s a MAP sensor on the fuel manifold. Is there a way to test that?

 

[BIG WOOD]

I’m taking it to the forklift later this week to move it. Rubber mats underneath are getting pulled up.

The waste tank was behind it but I think I’m gonna move it to the left side of the machine for better mounting space and ease of access to the rear and right side of the machine.

The van needs a power steering fluid reservoir, a tuneup, and a new rear door

As for the tm, the water pump needs tlc, and the 185f thermal relief valve needs replaced. . Once I get it completed, we’ll see what other issues it might have

View attachment 106620 View attachment 106621 View attachment 106622 View attachment 106623 View attachment 106624

When I go back to my original comment, thinking that was the only thing that was needed on this previous hunk of junk (now good running tm)...I GOT SCREWED!

 

[BIG WOOD]

Update:

I was under my thermal wave all day yesterday, replacing everything in the fuel system. (fuel pump, filter, and all fuel lines, and vacuum hose line on valve cover) The previous owner used transmission fuel lines, and a no name, incorrect pressure fuel pump, and caused it to almost catch on fire with it burning lean, causing my entire exhaust system to glow. After several fuel pressure tests (the fuel pressure gauge from Harbour Freight crapping on me) and finding the vacuum leak as well, I think it's finally ready. I"ll find out tomorrow how well it runs. $250 worth of money spent

I thought I had the overheated exhaust pipes dilemma fixed, but now I know it's fixed


I just pulled the van out of the shop prior to this problem. (rear engine seal, power steering guts, timing gear box, exhaust pipe doughnut). Another $2100 burned in the wallet

Correction: I went and did a job and the damn exhaust manifolds started glowing again. Did another pressure test and it only reads 35psi after fuel manifold. It puts out 65 at the pump. There’s a MAP sensor on the fuel manifold. Is there a way to test that?

Damnit
Correction: I went and did a job and the damn exhaust manifolds started glowing again. Did another pressure test and it only reads 35psi after fuel manifold. It puts out 65 at the pump. There’s a MAP sensor on the fuel manifold. Is there a way to test that?

 

[FredC]

Damnit
Correction: I went and did a job and the damn exhaust manifolds started glowing again. Did another pressure test and it only reads 35psi after fuel manifold. It puts out 65 at the pump. There’s a MAP sensor on the fuel manifold. Is there a way to test that?

vac pump and a multimeter...check youtube

isn't there a mil light on that thing?


have you checked injectors? (not reading thread)
is there a regulator

 

[BIG WOOD]

vac pump and a multimeter...check youtube

isn't there a mil light on that thing?


have you checked injectors? (not reading thread)
is there a regulator

There is a regulator on the throttle body, I think and I haven’t checked injectors. The pressure test I did was before the injectors

 

[FredC]

There is a regulator on the throttle body, I think and I haven’t checked injectors. The pressure test I did was before the injectors

this is a gm 1.6 right?
Does it have the zeems FI? I know the nissans did and I know some GM 1.6 applications used it but not sure about the thermalwave vortec

can you take a pic....what should the pressure be and where did you get the number?


also is the exhaust exchanger clean?


isn't there a MIL light on that thing?

 

[Nate The Great]

this is a gm 1.6 with zeems right?

can you take a pic....what should the pressure be and where did you get the number?


also is the exhaust exchanger clean?


isn't there a MIL light on that thing?

Muffler bearing needs changing..

 

[BIG WOOD]

this is a gm 1.6 right?
Does it have the zeems FI? I know the nissans did and I know some GM 1.6 applications used it but not sure about the thermalwave vortec

can you take a pic....what should the pressure be and where did you get the number?


also is the exhaust exchanger clean?


isn't there a MIL light on that thing?

The pressure needs to be about 55 and it tested 35 right before the injectors. The computer is Zeems and I think the fuel injection is something like PFI, I"ll check. Yes, it's the gm 1.6

There's only 1 light and it says it's emissions light right next to the key

 

[BIG WOOD]

Muffler bearing needs changing..

oh shut up, lol

 

[BIG WOOD]

Damnit
Correction: I went and did a job and the damn exhaust manifolds started glowing again. Did another pressure test and it only reads 35psi after fuel manifold. It puts out 65 at the pump. There’s a MAP sensor on the fuel manifold. Is there a way to test that?

Another Correction:

That's not a MAP sensor, it's a fuel pressure regulator. It looks just like a MAP, but the manual in the Everest (which uses the same one) shows it's a FPR.
But Oreilly says it's a MAP... https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-absolute-pressure-map-sensor/bos0/0261230112

And Justin sent me an article on this subject Jan. of 2022 when I first noticed this problem. I should've addressed it then, but I had so many other things to do to this setup a year ago. (Just read about it in the previous posts, lol)

When I was checking the fuel tap last nigh to be certain it was working correctly, I noticed it was very wet with fuel where the fuel vac hose is attached. And one of the symptoms of a bad FPR is it being very wet at that port due to fuel being sent back to the tank more than it should. I'll replace it this morning and report back.

Here's the article for anyone who might have this problem:

How to Test a Fuel Pressure Regulator

Learn how to test a fuel pressure regulator to save money and time in car repairs.

axleaddict.com

 

[FredC]

The pressure needs to be about 55 and it tested 35 right before the injectors. The computer is Zeems and I think the fuel injection is something like PFI, I"ll check. Yes, it's the gm 1.6

There's only 1 light and it says it's emissions light right next to the key

Where did you get the 55 number?

Can you post pics of the FI system on it? or make a good vid. Just want to see what injection system is used...

Is that light on? That is a MIL. In the olden days you jump to pins and count the blinks...some have it on the computer

 

[BIG WOOD]

Where did you get the 55 number?

Can you post pics of the FI system on it? or make a good vid. Just want to see what injection system is used...

Is that light on? That is a MIL. In the olden days you jump to pins and count the blinks...some have it on the computer

I"ll post a video shortly. I didn't see any light on. Which pins to I connect? On my everest it's the brown/white wire to ground, but I don't see that wire on this pin.

Changing the FPR/MAP sensor didn't help