Wicking for Dummies

Mikey P

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Wicking

“Wicking” is a term used to describe the upward migration of water-soluble materials on carpet fiber surfaces during drying. Wicking is a cause for recurring spots and stains by definition.

Carpet Cleaning, regardless of the method used, is not always effective at total soil removal. A certain amount of soil can be left behind at the base of yarns and on the carpet backing. Often, wicking is responsible for carrying soil from the base of yarns and backing materials to the yarn tips, where it becomes a visible problem.

Care tip:
If your carpet is experiencing Wicking after cleaning you can try these easy steps to fix the unsightly areas
-Let the carpet dry thoroughly for at least 48 hours
-Vacuum the area with a brush roll equipped upright vacuum, slowly and from three or more directions
-Lightly mist deionized water or 3% hydrogen peroxide on the affected area and gently blot with a microfiber (preferred) or white cotton towel. Look for soil transferring on to the towel.
-If effective, continue to lightly mist and blot, until the carpet’s appearance returns to normal
-Let the area dry and inspect
-If the carpet still does not look normal (keeping in mind that Wicking usually occurs in high traffic areas and wear may still be obvious) consult with your IICRC Certified Technician to set up a return visit or for suggestions on what cleaning solutions would be best for your carpet type.




Edits are welcomed
 

Mikey P

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In the world of HWE, imo wicking is most likely to occur in entry areas and high traffic areas. DIY homeowners and new techs are both prone to over clean/ saturate these problem areas with gawd knows what..
I believe my instructions are skund, especially in humid Florida.....


But I'll probably take the peroxide option out.
 

encapman

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When a carpet requires a 48-hour drying window I would expect that wicking would be significant!

The push in our industry about 15 years ago was to get the carpet to dry quickly. Is that still part of the current IICRC thinking process?

Here's my take on wicking...

To prevent wicking: Cleaning with a low moisture method can help. Using a glided wand can help. Using air movers will definitely help. Opening windows, running ceiling fans, or cranking the HVAC will help. Cleaning with a hydrogen peroxide-based detergent is also helpful when the potential for wicking is evident.

For treating wicking that's already occurred: Doing a quick post-bonnet cleaning with a hydrogen peroxide-based detergent will help correct the brownish appearance caused by wicking. Applying an anti-browning post-treatment can also be effective.
 
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Mikey P

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When a carpet requires a 48-hour drying window I would expect that wicking would be significant!

The push in our industry about 15 years ago was to get the carpet to dry quickly. Is that still part of the current IICRC thinking process?

Here's my take on wicking...

To prevent wicking: Cleaning with a low moisture method can help. Using a glided wand can help. Using air movers will definitely help. Opening windows, running ceiling fans, or cranking the HVAC will help. Cleaning with a hydrogen peroxide-based detergent is also helpful when the potential for wicking is evident.

For treating wicking that's already occurred: Doing a quick post-bonnet cleaning with a hydrogen peroxide-based detergent will help correct the brownish appearance caused by wicking. Applying an anti-browning post-treatment can also be effective.

I think you missed the premis of what this is about and who its for..
 

Mikey P

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Here you go Rick

 

Cleanworks

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The 48 hours is not necessarily for the carpet to dry. It's to allow all of the elements that can cause wicking, to show up. Although the carpet may dry in a few hours, you may have soap residues from diy spotting attemps, urine salt deposits, spilled beverages containing slow evaporating components, oils, etc. Not all wicking is from over wetting. Don't confuse cellulosic browning with wicking. Most wicking is from incomplete soil removal. Not always the carpet cleaners fault. In certain situations, where I have observed large multiple stains, I warn the customer that some may return and may need a second cleaning. At their expense.
 

Mikey P

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I chose to go with 48 hours just so we're positive that it's as dry as can be considering this is not a regional app and we can always think worst case scenarios..

I also put a lot of emphasis on the vacuuming being done by the customer, which again should be done when completely dry


And we all know after 48 hours they've moved on to other trauma in their life and have forgotten all about the browning or yellowing on their entry carpet that the dog has now vomited on
 

Numero Uno

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Hyphen tween de-ionized.
But one thing it should say.
Wicking after cleaning can be greatly diminished with correct moisture removal.
This is a pass the buck issue.
When you simply suck but do not suck enough moisture out.
Sure you can claim humidity,etc.
But the Wicker man can be found in a mirror...
Always emphasized correct extraction techniques,an multi passes.
With clean filters changed often in the case of aTm.
That alone an sloppy vac hose placement on the ground are most scenario's.
A slow motion over hour time video example has never been utilized in a class.
Quality in every phase of your workmanship negates 99 percent all in home problems.
Be a Craftsman,it's not ego.
It's called Passion to be the GOAT...
 

Numero Uno

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Marty,Yes after re-reading that.
I realize it's more than just one thing to add.
Signed the real reason,Marty chose idiot...
 

encapman

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If this information is intended for the carpet owner, I'm wondering how they'd readily obtain deionized water? It's not normally something that most people would have on hand.
 

Mikey P

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If this information is intended for the carpet owner, I'm wondering how they'd readily obtain deionized water? It's not normally something that most people would have on hand.
Every grocery and drug store in America sells it by the gallon Rick.

People use it in their clothes irons and some people choose to drink it.

It's no different than telling people to use 3% hydrogen peroxide which the most common reaction is "well want that bleach my carpet" or they have a 13-year-old opened bottle sitting around under the bathroom sink which will do no good..
 

jmyjam

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In the world of HWE, imo wicking is most likely to occur in entry areas and high traffic areas. DIY homeowners and new techs are both prone to over clean/ saturate these problem areas with gawd knows what..
I believe my instructions are skund, especially in humid Florida.....


But I'll probably take the peroxide option out.
Hello, I live in florida and never had a problem with wicking except now twice actually, one in a paper factory and the other in a car dealership with commercial carpet and no padding. I cleaned with prochem ultra packed at 300psi, I tried drying the area quickly with air movers and using 20% peroxide. But to no avail. I'm going back today and try to use the water claw to completely flush the area out, hopefully this works, if not any suggestions?
 

Jim Pemberton

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Hello, I live in florida and never had a problem with wicking except now twice actually, one in a paper factory and the other in a car dealership with commercial carpet and no padding. I cleaned with prochem ultra packed at 300psi, I tried drying the area quickly with air movers and using 20% peroxide. But to no avail. I'm going back today and try to use the water claw to completely flush the area out, hopefully this works, if not any suggestions?

Peroxide is helpful if you have a stained area that won't budge.

If the carpet looks clean upon completion, but "dirty" later when it dries, this is wicking, not a stain.

If you have the ability to perform Very Low Moisture Cleaning, whether with a CRB, OP, or even a 175 RPM floor machine and a pad appropriate for carpet, you'll fix that fast.

A water claw won't help on carpet without pad, btw.

If all you do is HWE, give it a light rinse at a lower pressure (200) and dry it quick. You'll be cleaning the light soil off the top and avoiding siphoning the imbedded soil at the bottom.
 
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SamIam

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Anything that reappears in a few days is a wick.

Spots that gradually reappear over time, that's caused by residuals, sugars, soap, adhesive.

I love ARA for soap spills that reappear.

The reappear ing over time ones are what Mike would call a pork chop 🥩.

I really hate the stains that are new, but the customer insists, no that was there that last 10 times you came it keeps coming back.

I need to photograph those and present a map of migration.
 
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Rick J

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Anything that reappears in a few days is a wick.

Spots that gradually reappear over time, that's caused by residuals, sugars, soap, adhesive.

I love ARA for soap spills that reappear.

The reappear ing over time ones are what Mike would call a pork chop 🥩.

I really hate the stains that are new, but the customer insists, no that was there that last 10 times you came it keeps coming back.

I need to photograph those and present a map of migration.
I confess to trying ARA years ago. Did not find it helped. Also , back in the day , there were those who advised using protector on those which may be problem wickers.
 

BIG WOOD

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Hello, I live in florida and never had a problem with wicking except now twice actually, one in a paper factory and the other in a car dealership with commercial carpet and no padding. I cleaned with prochem ultra packed at 300psi, I tried drying the area quickly with air movers and using 20% peroxide. But to no avail. I'm going back today and try to use the water claw to completely flush the area out, hopefully this works, if not any suggestions?
What machine are you using at 300psi?
 
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SamIam

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The 48 hours is not necessarily for the carpet to dry. It's to allow all of the elements that can cause wicking, to show up. Although the carpet may dry in a few hours, you may have soap residues from diy spotting attemps, urine salt deposits, spilled beverages containing slow evaporating components, oils, etc. Not all wicking is from over wetting. Don't confuse cellulosic browning with wicking. Most wicking is from incomplete soil removal. Not always the carpet cleaners fault. In certain situations, where I have observed large multiple stains, I warn the customer that some may return and may need a second clean

I confess to trying ARA years ago. Did not find it helped. Also , back in the day , there were those who advised using protector on those which may be problem wickers.
Done a few liquid soap stain that foamed badly and reappeared several cleanings.

Sprayed ara and when I went back the next time it was gone.
 
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The Great Oz

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Hello, I live in florida and never had a problem with wicking except now twice actually, one in a paper factory and the other in a car dealership with commercial carpet and no padding. I cleaned with prochem ultra packed at 300psi, I tried drying the area quickly with air movers and using 20% peroxide. But to no avail. I'm going back today and try to use the water claw to completely flush the area out, hopefully this works, if not any suggestions?
If you run into severe soil wicking, it usually is attributed to high soil load, oily soil load or poor airflow through the carpet. (Always assuming the cleaning was done properly)

Your paper company carpet issue might be oil tracked in from the shop, heavy soil from not being cleaned well in the past/not cleaned often enough, or could even be browning from a load of cellulose particulate embedded in the carpet.

Direct-glue commercial carpet often cleans up well on the surface, but the water you put down can't be removed very well due to the lack of airflow through the carpet. (Why Jim said the claw won't help)

Best practice with direct-glue installations is to clean the carpet thoroughly, use half-speed drying strokes, and set carpet drying fans to force it dry before wicking can occur. If the carpet looked good when you left the job, following Jim's advice might be the easiest way to get the carpet looking good now.

Also, lots of looped commercial carpet will crush over time and the pile will actually interlock and hold water against the backing. Two days later the wet soil still gets pumped back to the surface by foot traffic. Using Airpath fans on this type of carpet eliminated wicking problems for our company.
 
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Luky

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In the world of HWE, imo wicking is most likely to occur in entry areas and high traffic areas. DIY homeowners and new techs are both prone to over clean/ saturate these problem areas with gawd knows what..
I believe my instructions are sound, especially in humid Florida.....


But I'll probably take the peroxide option out.
You're right, your instructions are skunk, I mean sound. I have to agree with your assessment about the wicking. When using CRB, I always get stuff flying off the surface( usually dog hair mixed with human hair and mud in the same areas. My theory is that beat-down padding gets saturated with soiled water and since the carpet is drying from the bottom up, all that scum has a tendency to resurface. I've seen the same pattern over and over, and I wish that I could turn jobs like this down.
Here is the pick from using CRB at the transition points, to support your assessment.

20240208_101320.jpg
 
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JeffC

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I agree with pretty much everything that’s being said the bottom line is whatever method is used there will be times spots wick back. It’s often times 2-3 times as big on the backing as in the face fibers.. In my cleaning business I primarily use encapsulation with a cimex and we don’t have many spots come back. Sometimes we also extract and to be honest they’ve come back and sometimes it actually looks worse the next day. LOL Just to clarify when I talk about wicking I’m referring to spots that go away after cleaning and then return, not stains.

My best success has been to place a cotton towel or two on the area after cleaning and then on top of the towel a heavy weight and leave it as long as possible and until it dries for a few hours. I know some prefer microfibers but I still prefer thick cotton towels. If it’s coffee I’ve had the best success with oxidizers as the last step. Sometimes I have sprayed an oxidizer and placed plastic over it until it dries. This sometimes works.

A couple weeks we had a very bad saturated spot (about a square foot) under a trash can on a glue down carpet and we extracted then put an absorbent compound on it and worked it in with a horse hair brush and I went back the next day and vacuumed it up. It looked MUCH better. It was still barely visible and I’m guessing if we did it again it would be gone. This has what has worked for me but I’m sure there are many other options that would also work.
 

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